   GENTILE  ITALIAN COOK BOOK  ITALIAN BOOK CO. NEW YORK  
    STAND FAST  Grant  ENDOWMENT FUND  The seal of the Beatrice V. Grant Stand Fast Endowment Fund.   BEATRICE V. GRANT MSU 1929 - 1965  PROFESSOR of FOODS &amp; NUTRITION COLLECTOR of RARE COOKERY BOOKS  Her private collection of rare cookery books was donated by her sister, Dr. Rhoda Grant, to the MSU Libraries, May 1984.  
    
   THE ITALIAN COOK BOOK The Art of Eating Well  PRACTICAL RECIPES OF THE ITALIAN CUISINE  PASTRIES SWEETS, FROZEN DELICACIES AND SYRUPS  COMPILED BY MRS. MARIA GENTILE  ITALIAN BOOK CO. NEW YORK  
   COPYRIGHT 1919 BY ITALIAN BOOK CO.  
   PREFACE  One of the beneficial results of the Great War has been the teaching of thrift to the American housewife. For patriotic reasons and for reasons of economy, more attention has been bestowed upon the preparing and cooking of food that is to be at once palatable, nourishing and economical.  In the Italian cuisine we find in the highest degree these three qualities. That it is palatable, all those who have partaken of food in an Italian  trattoria  or at the home of an Italian family can testify, that it is healthy the splendid manhood and womanhood of Italy is a proof more than sufficient. And who could deny, knowing the thriftiness of the Italian race, that it is economical?  It has therefore been thought that a book of PRACTICAL RECIPES OF THE ITALIAN CUISINE could be offered to the American public with hope of success. It is not a pretentious book, and the recipes have been made as clear and simple as possible. Some of the dishes described are not peculiar to Italy. All, however, are representative of the  Cucina Casalinga  of the peninsular Kingdom, which is not the least product of a lovable and simple people, among whom the art of living well and getting the most out of life at a moderate expense has been attained to a very high degree.  
   
 
 
  
   1 BROTH OR SOUP STOCK (Brodo) 
To obtain good broth the  meat  must be put in  cold water,  and then allowed to boil slowly. Add to the  meat  some pieces of  bones  and "soup greens" as, for instance,  celery,   carrots  and  parsley.  To give a brown color to the broth, some  sugar,  first browned at the fire, then diluted in  cold water,  may be added.  While it is not considered that the broth has much nutritive power, it is excellent to promote the digestion. Nearly all the Italian soups are made on a basis of broth.   A good recipe for 
 
 substantial broth to be used for invalids 
is the following: Cut some  beef  in thin slices and place them in a large saucepan; add some  salt.  Pour  cold water  upon them, so that they are entirely covered. Cover the saucepan so that it is hermetically closed and place on the cover a receptacle containing  water,  which must be constantly renewed. Keep on a low fire for six hours, then on a strong fire for ten minutes. Strain the liquid in  cheese cloth.     The soup stock, besides being used for soups, is a necessary ingredient in hundreds of Italian dishes.  
   2 SOUP OF "CAPPELLETTI" 
This Soup is called of  "Cappelletti"  or "little hats" on account of the shape of the  "Cappelletti."   First a thin sheet of paste is made according to the following directions:  The best and most tender paste is made simply of  eggs,   flour  and  salt,    water  may be substituted for part of the eggs, for economy, or when a less rich paste is needed.  Allow about a cup of  flour  to an  egg.  Put the  flour  on a  bread board,  make a hollow in the middle and break in the  egg.  Use any extra  whites  that are on hand. Knead it thoroughly, adding more  flour  if necessary, until you have a paste you can roll out. Roll it as thin as an eighth of an inch. A long rolling pin is necessary, but any stick, well scrubbed and sand papered, will serve in lieu of the long  Italian rolling pin.   Cut from this sheet of paste rounds measuring about three inches in diameter. In the middle of each circle place a spoonful of filling that must be made beforehand, composed of cooked meat ( chicken,   pork  or  veal ) ground very fine and seasoned with  grated cheese,  grated  lemon peel,   nutmeg,   allspice,   salt.  The ground meat is to be mixed with an equal amount of curds or  cottage cheese.   When the filling is placed in the circle of paste, fold the latter over and moisten the edge of the paste with the finger dipped in water to make it stay securely closed.  These  cappelletti  should be cooked in  chicken or beef broth  until the paste is tender, and served with this broth as a soup.  
   3 BREAD SOUP (Panata) 
This excellent and nutritious soup is a godsend for using the stale bread that must never again be thrown away. It is composed of  bread crumbs  and  grated bread,   eggs,   grated cheese,   nutmeg  (in very small quantity) and  salt,  all mixed together and put in  broth  previously prepared, which must be warm at the moment of the immersion, but not at the boiling point. Then place it on a low fire and stir gently. Any  vegetable  left over may be added.  
   4 GNOCCHI 
This is an excellent soup, but as it requires boiled or  roast breast of chicken or turkey  it is  well to make it only when these ingredients are handy.  Prepare a certain quantity of boiled  potatoes,  the mealy kind being preferred. Mash the  potatoes  and mix them with  chicken or turkey breast  well ground,  grated cheese  ( Parmesan  or  Swiss ), two or more  yolks of eggs,   salt  and a small quantity of  nutmeg.  Pour the compound on the  bread board  with a quantity of  flour  sufficient to make a paste and roll it in little sticks as thick as the small finger. Cut the sticks in little pieces about half an inch long and put them in  boiling water.  Five or six minutes' cooking will be sufficient.  
   5 VEGETABLE SOUP (Zuppa Sant&#232;) 
Any kind of vegetables may be used for this soup:  carrots,   celery,   cabbage,   turnips,   onions,   potatoes,   spinach,  the outside leaves of  lettuce  or greens of any variety.  Select three or four kind of vegetables, shred or chop coarsely  cabbage  or greens, and slice or cut in cubes the root vegetables. Put them over the fire with a small quantity of cooking  oil  or  butter substitute,  and let them fry until they have absorbed the fat. Then add  broth  and cook until the vegetables are very tender. Fry  croutons of stale bread  in  oil  and serve them in the soup.  
 
   6 QUEEN'S SOUP (Zuppa Regina) 
This is made with the  white meat of chicken,  which is to be ground in a  meat grinder  together with blanched  almonds  (5 or 6) for one quart of  chicken. stock.  To the meat and  almond  add some  bread crumbs,  first soaked in  milk  or  broth,  in the proportion of about one fifth of the quantity of the meat. All these ingredients are to be rubbed to a very smooth paste and  hot broth  is to be added to them.  If you wish the soup to be richer and have a more milky consistency, use the  yolk of an egg,  which should be beaten, and have a few tablespoonfuls of  hot broth  stirred into it before adding to the soup. Do not let the soup boil after the egg is added or it will curdle.   One slice of  stale bread  may be cut into cubes, fried in deep  fat,  and the croutons put in the soup. Send it to the table with a dish of grated cheese.  
   7 BEAN SOUP (Zuppa di fagiuoli) 
One cup of  dried beans, kidney, navy or lima  is to be soaked over night. Then boil until tender. It is preferable to put the  beans  to cook in  cold water  with a pinch of  soda.  When they come to boil, pour off this  water  and add fresh.   Chop fine 1/4  onion,  one clove of  garlic,  one sprig of  parsley  and one piece of  celery  and put them to fry in 1/4 cup of  oil  with  salt  and a generous amount of  pepper.  When the vegetables are a delicate brown add to them two cups of the broth from the beans and 1 cup of  tomatoes  (canned or fresh). Let all come to a boil and pour the mixture into the kettle of  beans  from which some of the  water  has been drained, if they are very liquid. This soup may be served as it is or rubbed through a sieve before serving.  Croutons  or triangles of  dry toast  make an excellent addition.  The bean soup is made without meat or chicken broth, and it belongs consequently to that class of soup called by the Italians  "Minestra di Magro"  or "lean soup, to be served preferably on Friday and other days in which the Roman Catholic Church prohibits the use of meats.  
   8 LENTIL SOUP (Zuppa di lenticchie) 
The lentil soup is prepared in the same way as the bean soup, only substituting  lentils  for beans. A good combination is that of  lentils  and  rice.  The nutritive qualities of the  lentils  are not sufficiently known in this country, but all books on dietetics speak very highly of them.  
 
   9 VEGETABLE CHOWDER (Minestrone alla Milanese) 
Cut off the rind of 1/2 lb.  salt pork  and put it into two quarts of  water  to boil. Cut off a small slice of the  pork  and beat it to a paste with two or three sprigs of  parsley,  a little  celery  and one kernel of  garlic.  Add this paste to the  pork  and  water.  Slice two  carrots,  cut the rib out of the leaves of 1/4 medium sized  cabbage.  Add the  carrots,   cabbage leaves,  other vegetables,  seasoning  and  butter  to the soup, and let it boil slowly for 2 1/2 hours. The last 1/2 hour add one small handful of  rice  for each person.  When the  pork  is very soft, remove and slice in little ribbons and put it back.  The minestrone is equally good eaten cold.  
   10 RAVIOLI 
Put on the  bread board  about two pounds of  flour  in a heap; make a hollow in the middle and put in it a piece of  butter,  three  egg-yolks,   salt  and three or four tablespoonfuls of  lukewarm water.  Make a paste and knead it well, then let it stand for an hour, wrapped or covered with a linen cloth. Then spread the paste to a thin sheet, as thin as a ten-cent piece.   Chop and grind pieces of roast or boiled  chicken meat:  add to it an equal part of  marrow from the bones of beef  and pieces of  brains,  three  yolks,  some  crumbs of bread  soaked in  milk  or  broth  and some  grated cheese  ( Parmesan  or  Swiss ). Rub through a sieve and make little balls as big as a hazel-nut, which are to be placed at equal distances (a little more than an inch) in a line over the sheet of paste.  Beat a whole  egg  and pass it over the paste with a brush all around the little balls. Cover these with another sheet of paste, press down the intervals between each ball, and then separate each section from the other with a knife. Moisten the edges of each section with the finger dipped in cold water, to make them stick together, and press them down with the fingers or the prongs of a fork. Then put to boil in  water  seasoned with  salt  or, better still, in  broth.  The ravioli are then to be served hot seasoned with cheese and butter or with  brown stock  or  tomato sauce.   
   11 PAVESE SOUP (Zuppa alla Pavese) 
Cut as many thin slices of  bread  as are needed in order that each person may have at least two of them. These slices are then to be toasted and browned with  butter.  Poach two  eggs  for each  person, one on each slice of  bread  and place the slices on a large and deep dish (not in a  soup tureen ). Pour  hot broth  in the plate, taking care not to break the  eggs,  season with  Parmesan  or  Swiss cheese,  and serve.  
  PASTE SPAGHETTI, MACARONI ETC. (Pasta Asciutta)  The Italians serve the spaghetti or macaroni at the beginning of the meal, in place of soup, and they give it the name of  Minestra Asciutta  or "dry" soup. Besides the familiar spaghetti, the paste is served in many other forms and with different seasoning. This is by far the most popular Italian dish, and it seems to have pleased the taste of all the peoples of the earth. The highly nutritive qualities of spaghetti and of cheese, their indispensable condiment, have been recognized by all diet authorities and, as for its palatableness, the lovers of spaghetti are just as enthusiastic and numerous outside of Italy as within the boundaries of that blessed country. The most popular seasoning for spaghetti, are tomato sauce, brown stock and anchovy sauce. The description of these three condiments follows:  
   12 TOMATO SAUCE (Salsa di Pomidoro) 
Chop together, fine, one quarter of an  onion,  a clove of  garlic,  a piece of  celery  as long as your finger, a few  bay leaves  and just enough  parsley.  Season with a little  oil,   salt  and  pepper,  cut up seven or eight  tomatoes  and put everything over the fire together. Stir it from time to time and when you see the juice condensing into a thin custard strain through a sieve, and it is ready for use.  When fresh  tomatoes  are not available the  tomato paste  may be used. This is a concentrated paste made from tomatoes and spices which is to be had, at all Italian grocers', now so numerous in all American cities. Thinned with  water,  it is a much used ingredient in Italian recipes. Catsup and concentrated tomato soup do not make satisfactory substitutes as they are too sweet in flavor. Of course canned  tomatoes  seasoned with  salt  and a bit of  bay leaf,  can always be used instead of fresh  tomatoes.   This sauce serves many purposes. It is good on boiled meat; excellent to dress macaroni, spaghetti or other pastes which have been seasoned with butter and cheese, or on boiled rice seasoned in the same way (see  Risotto ).  Mushrooms  are a fine addition to it.   When using concentrated paste the following recipes will be found to give good results:   Chop one  onion,  one  carrot  and a  celery  stalk: form a little bunch of  parsley  and other  aromatic greens  and put everything to brown in a saucepan together with a piece of  butter.  Add a reasonable portion of  tomato paste  while cooking, stir and keep on a low fire until the sauce assumes the necessary consistency.   
   13 BROWN STOCK (Sugo di Carne) 
Cover the bottom of a saucepan with thin slices of  beef  taken from a juicy cut and small pieces of  salt pork.  Place over a large  onion,  one  carrot,  and a stalk of  celery,  all chopped in small pieces. Add some  butter  and cover the whole with any  trimmings from steaks or roasts  and any bit of left over  cooked meat.  Season with  salt  and  cloves.  Put over the fire without stirring. When you smell the  onions  getting very brown, turn the meat and when everything is quite brown add a cup of  water,  renewing the latter three times. Finally add a certain quantity of  boiling water  or, better still, of  broth,  and let it boil gently five or six hours. Strain, cool and skim off the fat which will form a cake on top of the liquid.   The meat can be used afterward for meat balls or  Croquettes.  The stock may be kept for some days and forms the basis for many dishes.  
   14 ANCHOVY SAUCE (Salsa d'Acciughe) 
This recipe does not call for the filets of anchovies prepared for  hors d'oeuvre,  but the less expensive and larger whole  anchovies  in salt to be had in bulk or cans at large dealers. Wash them thoroughly in plenty of  water.  Remove head,  toil , backbone and skin and they are ready for use.  Put five or six  anchovies  into a  colander  and dip quickly into  boiling water  to loosen the skins, remove the salt, skin and bone them. Chop them and put over the fire in a saucepan with a generous quantity of  oil  and some  pepper.  Do not let them boil, but when they are hot add two tablespoons of  butter  and three or four tablespoons of concentrated tomato juice made by cooking down canned  tomatoes  and rubbing through a sieve. When this sauce is used to season spaghetti, these must be boiled in  water  that is only slightly salted and care must be taken not to let them become too soft. The quantities above mentioned ought to be sufficient for about one pound of spaghetti.  
 
 
   15 SPAGHETTI OR MACARONI WITH BUTTER AND CHEESE (Pasta al burro e formaggio) 
This is the simplest form in which the  spaghetti  may be served, and it is generally reserved for the thickest paste. The  spaghetti  are to be boiled until tender in  salted water,  taking care to remove them when tender, and not cooked until they lose form. They should not be put into the water until this is at a boiling point.  Take as much  macaroni  as will half fill the dish in which it is to be served. Break into pieces two and a half to three inches long if you so desire. The Italians leave them unbroken, but their skill in turning them around the fork and eating them  is not the privilege of everybody.  Put the  macaroni  into  salted boiling water,  and boil twelve to fifteen minutes, or until the  macaroni  is perfectly soft. Stir frequently to prevent the  macaroni  from adhering to the bottom. Turn it into a  colander  to drain; then put it into a  pudding-dish  with a generous quantity of  butter  and  grated cheese.  If more cheese is liked, it can be brought to the table so that the guests can help themselves to it.  The macaroni called "Mezzani" which is a name designating size, not quality, is the preferable kind for macaroni dishes made with butter and cheese.  
 
   16 MACARONI WITH SAUCE (Maccheroni al sugo) 
The most appreciated kind of macaroni are those seasoned with tomato sauce or with brown stock (see nos.  12  and  13 ). The  macaroni  are boiled as above, then drained in a  colander,  returned to the saucepan and mixed with the sauce and  grated cheese.  For those who like it some  butter  may be added in the mixing.  
   17 MACARONI WITH ANCHOVY SAUCE (Maccheroni con salsa d'acciughe) 
After the paste is drained thoroughly it is to be put into the hot dish in which it is to be served and the  anchovy sauce  poured over it and well mixed with two silver forks until the sauce has gone all through it. Some  olive oil  may be added, but grated cheese is not generally used with the anchovy sauce.  
   18 MACARONI A LA CORINNA (Maccheroni alla Corinna) 
Put on the fire a pot with two quarts of  salted water  to which add a small piece of  butter.  When it begins to boil put in it 3/4 lb.  macaroni.  Let  it boil for five minutes, then drain them in a  colander.  Put them again in new  boiling water,  prepared as above and let them cook on a slow fire. Drain them again. Cover the bottom of a plate with  macaroni  and cover this first layer with  grated cheese  and with some vegetables in mac&#232;doine, that is, chopped fine and fried brown with  butter.  Repeat the draining, moisten the  macaroni  with the water in which they have previously cooked and keep on a low fire for ten minutes more.  The  Mac&#232;doine  of vegetables can be made with a dozen  Bruxelles sprouts  or one  cabbage,  half a dozen big  asparagus  cut in little pieces, a  carrot  cut in thin slices, a dozen small  onions,  some  turnips  and half a dozen  mushrooms.  The  mushrooms  and the  asparagus  can be omitted. Melt some  butter  in a saucepan and when the  turnips,  the  carrots  and the  onions  are half cooked, add the  cabbage  or  sprouts.  Put in some  water  and some more  butter,  boil for ten minutes and then add the  mushrooms  and the  asparagus,  adding  salt  and  pepper,  and a little  sugar  if this is desired.  
   19 MACARONI "AU GRATIN" (Maccheroni al gratin) 
Boil the  macaroni  in  salted water  until tender and drain them. Butter slightly a  fireproof casserole   and lay on the bottom some  grated cheese  and  grated bread.  Alternate the layers of  cheese  with  macaroni  and on the top layer of  macaroni  put more  cheese  and  bread  grated. Over the whole pour some  melted butter,  cover the casserole, (or  pyrex plate ) and put it in the oven with a low fire. Keep for ten minutes or more, until the top appears browned.  
   20 MACARONI NAPOLITAINE (Maccheroni alla Napoletana) 
Grind 1/4 lb.  salt pork  or  bacon  and fry it out in a saucepan. While it is frying put one small  onion  through the  grinder.  As soon as the  pork  begins to brown add the  onion,  the  parsley  chopped, a clove (or small section) of  garlic  shredded fine, and a few  dried mushrooms  which have been softened by soaking in  warm water.  When the vegetables are very brown (great care must be taken not to burn the  onion,  which scorches very easily) add 1/2 lb. round  steak  ground coarsely or cut up in little cubes. When the meat is a good brown color, add some fresh or canned  tomatoes  or half a tablespoonful of  tomato paste  and simmer slowly until all has cooked down to a thick creamy sauce. It will probably take 3/4 hour. The sauce may be bound together with a little  flour  it it shows a tendency to separate.   This sauce is used to dress all kinds of macaroni and spaghetti, also for boiled rice (see  Risotto ). The  macaroni  or  spaghetti  should be left unbroken when cooked. If they are too long to fit in the kettle immerse one end in the  boiling salted water  and in a very few minutes the ends of the  spaghetti  under the water will become softened so that the rest can be pushed down into the kettle. Be careful not to overcook it, and it will not be pasty, but firm and tender. Drain it carefully and put in a hot  soup tureen.  Sprinkle a handful of  grated cheese  over it and pour on the sauce. Lift with two forks until thoroughly mixed.  
   21 MACARONI FRIED WITH OIL (Maccheroni all'olio) 
After the  macaroni  have boiled drain them and put them in a saucepan in which some good  olive oil  has already boiled, with a clove of  garlic  chopped fine. Let the paste fry, taking care that it doesn't stick to the bottom of the saucepan, and when it is well browned on one side, turn it to have the other side browned. Serve the  macaroni  very hot. Add no cheese.  
 
   22 RISOTTO MILANAISE (Risotto alla Milanese) 
Melt a small piece of  butter  in a saucepan. Brown in the  butter  a medium sized  onion,  cut in thin slices. When the  onion  is browned, take it away from the saucepan and add little by little the  rice,  stirring it with a wooden spoon. Every time that the  rice  becomes dry, add some  hot broth  (or  hot water ) until the  rice  is completely cooked. Add  salt  and  pepper  and a little  saffron,  if you like it.  When the  rice  is almost cooked, add to it some   brown stock.   Dress with  parmesan cheese  and some  butter.  Mix well and serve hot. This dish must not be allowed to be overcooked or cooled before eating.  
   23 RISOTTO WITH CHICKEN GIBLETS (Risotto alla Milanese II) 
The broth for this risotto may be made by cooking together the  giblets, neck and tips of wings of a chicken  which is to be roasted, or it may be made from the left-overs of  roast fowl.   Boil the  rice  until it is about half done in  salted water.  Then let the water cook away and begin adding the  broth,  in such quantity that the  rice  will be nearly dry when it is tender. Fry one chopped  onion  in the  oil  or  fat.  Some  mushrooms  cut up small are a very good addition to this  "Soffritto."  Mince the  chicken giblets  and add to the  onion.  Stir the mixture into the  rice.  Add  grated cheese  and a beaten  egg  just as the  rice  is taken from the fire.  
   24 (Risotto con piselli) 
Wash and dry 1 1/2 lb.  rice;  chop fine one medium sized  onion  and put it on the fire with a small quantity of  butter.   When the  onion  is well browned, add the  rice  little by little, stirring with a wooden spoon. Add some  boiling water  one cup at a time. Drain the  peas  previously prepared (fresh or canned  peas  may be used) and add them toward the end of the cooking. When the whole is almost cooked, add some  salt  and take it away from the water almost dry. Add some  butter,  stir and serve hot.  
   25 RISOTTO WITH LOBSTER (Risotto coi gamberi) 
For this risotto either  lobster  or  crab meat  can be used: the former is, however, considered more tasty. The  lobster  or  crab meat  ought to be about half the weight of the  rice  employed. A little more than a pound of  rice  and half this weight  of  crab meat  ought to be enough for six persons.  Chop fine a sprig of  parsley,  a stalk of  celery,  one  carrot,  half an  onion  a clove of  garlic  and brown the whole in good  olive oil.  When browned, add the  crab meat  and season with  salt  and  pepper.  During the cooking process stir and turn over the  crabs,  and when they have become red, pour over as much  hot water  as is necessary to cook the  rice.   After the water boils for a while, remove the  lobster  (or  crab,  or  craw-fish ) leaving the saucepan on the fire. Put half of the  crabs  aside, and grind the rest. Rub the  ground meat  through the sieve and put it back on the fire. In another saucepan melt some  butter  and put into it little by little the  rice  that has been washed and dried. Stir and add the  broth  from the first saucepan. When the  rice  is almost cooked add the  craw-fish  that you have put aside, or rather its meat extracted from the shells, take from the fire and pour over it the fish mixture, adding some  grated cheese.   
   26 RICE WITH SAFFRON (Riso alla Milanese con Zafferano) 
Wash and dry the  rice  and put it in  boiling broth  ( beef or chicken broth ). When the  rice  is half cooked add half its weight of  marrow of beef bone,  cut into small pieces. A few minutes  are sufficient for the cooking of the marrow. Add  grated cheese  and remove the kettle from the fire.  Dissolve some  saffron  in one or two tablespoonfuls of  broth;  sift it through a sieve and mix with  rice,  which is to be served very hot, and makes an excellent soup.  
   27 RICE CAKES (Frittelle di riso) 
Cook the  rice  in  milk,  adding a small quantity of  butter,  some  salt,  half a teaspoon of  sugar  and just a taste of  lemon peel.  Let the  rice  cool down after being thoroughly cooked, then add three yolks of  eggs  (for 1/4 lb. of  rice ) and some  flour.  Mix well and let the whole rest for several hours. When about to fry, beat the white of the  eggs  to a froth, add to the  rice  mixing slowly, and put into the saucepan with a ladle.  
   28 FRIED ARTICHOKE (Carciofi fritti) 
Take two  artichokes,  cut out the hard part of the leaves and of the stalk, cut them in two. Then cut these halves into section or slices so as to have eight or ten for each  artichoke,  according to size. As you cut them, throw them into  cold water and when they are well washed, dry them, but not thoroughly, putting them at once into the  flour  so that the latter remains attached to it. Beat the white of an  egg,  but not to a froth, then mix the yolk with the white and  salt  the whole. Shake out the  artichokes  to take away the superfluous  flour  and then put them in the  egg,  leaving them for a while so that the  egg  may be attached to them.  Throw the pieces one by one into the pan where there is boiling  fat,   butter  or  olive oil,  and when they are well browned, take them away and serve with  lemon.  If it is desired that the  artichokes  remain white, it is better to fry them in  oil  and to squeeze half  lemon  into the  water  where the  artichokes  are put to soften.  
   29 STEAMED ARTICHOKES (Carciofi a vapore) 
 Artichokes  have been only recently imported to the United States, principally by Italian farmers, and they are just beginning to find their way into the American kitchen. The  artichokes  may be eaten raw or cooked. It is a healthy and palatable vegetable, easily digested when cooked. It is nutritious and adapted for convalescents. It may be prepared in a thousand ways, and here follow some of the simplest and most tasteful.  To prepare the steamed  artichokes  they must  first be cleaned and the stalk cut to less than half an inch. Put them in a saucepan, standing on their bottoms, one near the other, in half an inch or more of  water.  In an opening made in the middle put  salt  and  pepper,  and pour inside as much good  olive oil  as they may contain. Cover well the saucepan and put it on the fire. The  artichokes,  that are already seasoned, will be cooked by the steam.  
   30 STEWED ARTICHOKES (Carciofi in stufato) 
Wash the  artichokes  and cut the hard part of the leaves (the top). Widen the leaves and insert a hash composed of  bread crumbs,    parsely ,   salt,   pepper  and  oil.  Place the  artichokes  in the saucepan standing on their stalk, one touching the other. Cover them with  water  and let them cook for two hours or more. When the leaves are easily detached they are cooked.  
   31 ARTICHOKES WITH BUTTER (Carciofi al burro) 
Wash, dry and cut out the top of the leaves of as many  artichokes  as are needed. Cut them in two or four and boil them in  salt water.  When  tender, drain them, have them slightly browned in  melted butter  and season with  salt  and  pepper.   When served in a  vegetable dish  or placed in a pyramid on a round plate, sprinkle with  grated cheese.   
   32 FRIED SQUASH (Zucchine fritte) 
The squashes used by Italians for frying and other purposes are very small, and for this reason they are called "Zucchine" or small squashes. They can be bought at those shops kept by Italian vegetable dealers that are now to be found in large number in most American cities and, invariably, in Italian neighborhoods during the summer season. The "Zucchine" are an extremely tasty vegetable and they are especially good when fried.  Select the  squashes  that are long and thin: wash them cut them in little strips less than half an inch thick. Take away the softer part of the interior and  salt  moderately. Leave them aside for an hour or two, then drain them but don't dry them. Put them in  flour  and rub gently in a sieve to take away the superfluous  flour:  immediately after put them in a saucepan where there is already  oil,   fat  or  butter  boiling. At the beginning don't touch them to avoid breaking,  and only when they have become a little hardened stir them and remove when they begin to be browned.  
   33 LAMB OMELET (Agnello in frittata) 
Cut in little pieces a  loin of lamb,  which is the part that lends itself best for this dish, and fry in  lard:  a little quantity of  lard  is sufficient, because the meat of the loins is rather fat. When half cooked season with  salt  and  pepper  and when fully cooked pour over four or five whole  eggs  slightly beaten also seasoned moderately with  salt  and  pepper.  Mix, taking care that the  eggs  do not harden.  
   34 FRIED CHICKEN (Pollo fritto) 
Wash a spring  chicken  and keep in  boiling water  for one minute. Cut into pieces at the joints, roll them in  flour,  season with  salt  and  pepper  and dip in two whole beaten  eggs.  After leaving the pieces of  chicken  for half an hour, roll them in  bread crumbs,  repeating the operation twice if necessary. Put into a saucepan with boiling  oil  or  fat,  seeing that the pieces of  chicken  are well browned on both sides. Keep the fire low. Serve hot with  lemon.   
 
   35 CHICKEN ALLA CACCIATORA (Pollo alla cacciatora) 
Chop one large  onion  and keep it for more than half an hour in  cold water,  then dry it and brown it aside. Cut up a  chicken,  sprinkle the pieces with  flour,   salt  and  pepper  and saut&#232; in the  fat  which remains in the frying pan. When the  chicken  is brown add one pint fresh or canned  tomatoes  and half a dozen sweet  green peppers  and put back the  onion.  When the  gravy  is thick enough add  hot water  to prevent the burning of the vegetables. Cover the pan tightly and simmer until the  chicken  is very tender. This is an excellent way to cook tough  chickens.   Fowls  which have been boiled may be cooked in this way, but of course young and tender  chickens  will have the finer flavor.  
   36 CORN MEAL WITH SAUSAGES (Polenta con salsicce) 
Cook in  water  one cup of  yellow cornmeal  making a stiff mush.  Salt  it well and when it is cooked spread out to cool on a  bread board  about half an inch thick. Then cut the mush into small squares.   Put in a saucepan several whole  sausages  with a little  water,  and when they are cooked skin and crush them and add some  brown stock  or  tomato sauce.   Put the polenta (or cornmeal mush) in a fireproof receptacle, season with  grated cheese,  the crushed  sausages  and a piece of  butter.  Put it in the oven and serve when hot.  
   37 POLENTA PIE (Polenta Pasticciata) 
Make a very stiff mush of  cornmeal  cooked in  milk.   Salt  it well and spread out on the  bread board  in a sheet about one inch thick. When cold, cut in little diamonds or squares and place these in a buttered baking dish. Prepare the  Bolognese  souce   according to the following recipe: Chop 1/4 lb. round  steak,  a slice of  pork  or  bacon,  one small  carrot  1/4  onion,  one large piece  celery.  Put the meat and vegetables over the fire with a piece of  butter.  When the meat has browned add half a tablespoon of  flour  and wet the mixture with  hot water  or  broth,  allowing it to simmer from half an hour to an hour. It is done when it is the consistency of a thick gravy.  Make a smooth white sauce with  milk   corn starch  and  butter.  Over a layer of the polenta, cut as above and placed in the baking dish sprinkle  some  grated cheese  and a few tablespoons each of the white sauce and the meat sauce. Repeat until the dish is full. Bake until the top is nicely browned. This dish seems very elaborate, but it is very delicious and a meal in itself.  The Bolognese sauce is also used to season macaroni or spaghetti in lieu of the tomato sauce or the brown stock.  
   38 STUFFED ROLLS (Pagnottelle ripiene) 
Take some  rolls,  and by means of a round opening on the top, as large as a half dollar piece or less, extract nearly all the crumb, leaving the crust intact, but not too thin. Wet inside and outside with  hot milk,  and when they are fairly soaked, dip in beaten  eggs  and fry them in  lard  or  oil.  When beginning to brown, fill them with meat that has been previously chopped and cooked. This chopped meat ought to be made with  breast of chicken,   chicken giblets,   liver  etc.,   brown stock   and some  flour  to hold it together.  
   39 STEWED VEAL (Stracotto di vitella) 
The stock from this dish may very well be used to season macaroni or boiled rice. Care  must be taken, however, not to draw away all the juice of the meat in order to have a sauce too rich at the expense of the principal dish.  Place in a saucepan one pound of  veal  or more, bone included, a piece of  butter  or some  olive oil  (or the two together) half a medium sized  onion,  one small  carrot,  two  celery  stalks cut in small pieces. Season with  salt  and  pepper.  Put it on a low fire, turn the meat over often and when browned add a pinch of  flour  and some  tomato paste,  bringing it to full cooking with  water  poured little by little. The  flour  is used to keep the sauce together and give it color, but care must be taken not to burn it, because in that case the sauce would have an unpleasant taste and a black, instead of a reddish color. The addition of  dried mushrooms,  previously softened in the  water  and slightly boiled in the sauce will add greatly to its taste.  As has been said the sauce can well be used to season spaghetti or risotto. The stewed  veal  can be served with some vegetable.  
   40 CHICKEN BONED AND STUFFED (Pollo dissossato ripieno) 
To remove the bones from a  chicken  the following instructions will be found useful.  Wash and singe the fowl: take off the head  and legs, and remove the tendons. When a fowl is to be boned it is not drawn. The work of boning is not difficult, but it requires practice. The skin must not be broken. Use a small pointed knife cut the skin down the full length of the back; then, beginning at the neck, carefully scrape the meat away from the bone, keeping the knife close to the bone. When the joints of the wings and legs are met, break them back and proceed to free the meat from the carcass. When one side is free, turn the fowl and do the same on the other side. The skin is drawn tightly over the breast-bone, and care must be used to detach it without piercing the skin. When the meat is free from the carcass, remove the bones from the legs and wings, turning the meat down or inside out, as the bones are exposed, and using care not to break the skin at the joints. The end bones of the wing cannot be removed, and the whole end joint may be cut off or left as it is.  Now that the fowl is boned make the following stuffing, regulating the quantity on the size of the chicken. Chop half a pound or more, of lean  veal,  and grind it afterwards, so that it may make a paste. Add a large piece of  bread crumb  soaked in  broth,  a tablespoon of  grated cheese,  three  yolks of egg,   salt,   pepper  and, if desired, just a taste of  nutmeg.  Finally mix also one or two slices of  ham  and  tongue,  cut in small pieces. Stuff the boned chicken with this filling, sew up  the opening, wrap it tightly in a cloth and put to cook in  water  on a low fire. When taken from the  water,  remove the wrapping and brown it, first with  butter,  then in a sauce made in the following way: Break all the  bones  that have been extracted from the chicken, the  head  and  neck  included, and put them on the fire with  dried meat  cut in little pieces,  butter,   onion,   celery  and  carrot,  seasoned with  salt  and  pepper.  Make the sauce with the water in which the chicken has been boiled, which has naturally become a good chicken broth.  Before sending to the table, remove the thread with which the chicken has been sewed.  
   41 CHICKEN WITH TOMATOES (Pollo alla contadina) 
Take a young  chicken  and make some little holes in the skin in which you will put some sprigs of  rosemary  and a clove of  garlic  cut into five or six pieces. Put it on the fire with chopped  lard  and season with  salt  and  pepper  inside and outside. When it is well browned on all parts add  tomatoes  cut in pieces, taking care to remove previously all the seeds. Moisten with  broth  or  water.  Brown some  potatoes  in  oil,   fat  or  butter,  previously cutting them into sections. When browned dip in the sauce of the  chicken  and serve the whole together.  
 
   42 CHICKEN WITH SHERRY (Pollo al marsala) 
Cut the  chicken  in big pieces and put it in the saucepan with one medium sized  onion  chopped fine and a piece of  butter.  Season with  salt  and  pepper  and, when it is well browned, add some  broth  and complete the cooking. Remove the excessive fat from the sauce by sifting through a sieve or otherwise, and put the  chicken  back on the fire with a glass of  Sherry or Marsala wine,  removing it from the fire as soon as the sauce begins to boil.  
   43 CHICKEN WITH SAUSAGES (Pollo colle salsicce) 
Chop fine half an  onion  and put it in a saucepan with a piece of  butter  and four or five slices of  ham,  half an inch wide. Over these ingredients place a whole  chicken,  season with  pepper  and a little  salt  and place on the fire. Brown it on all sides and, when the  onion  is all melted, add  water  or  broth  and three or four  sausages  freshly made. Let it cook on a low fire, seeing that the sauce remains liquid and does not dry up.  
 
   44 CHICKEN WITH EGG SAUCE (Pollo in salsa d'uova) 
Break into pieces a young  chicken  and put it in the saucepan with a piece of  butter.  Season with  salt  and  pepper.  When it is half browned sprinkle with a pinch of  flour  to give it color, then complete the cooking with  broth.  Remove it from the same and put it on a plate. Beat the  yolk of one egg  with the piece of half a  lemon  and pour it on the sauce of the  chicken,  allowing it to simmer for some minutes. Then pour on the  chicken  and serve hot.  
   45 CHICKEN BREASTS SAUT&#200;S (Petti di pollo alla saut&#232;) 
Cut the breast of a fowl in very thin slices, give them the best possible shape and make a whole piece from the little pieces that will remain, cleaning well the breast-bone, crushing and mixing these. Season with  salt  and  pepper  and dip the slices in beaten  eggs,  leaving them for a few hours. Sprinkle with  bread crumbs  ground fine and saut&#232; in  butter.  Serve with  lemon.   If you want this dish more elaborate prepare a sauce in the following way: Put some good  olive oil  in a frying pan, just enough to cover the bottom, and cover the oil with a layer of  dry  mushrooms.  Sprinkle over a small quantity of  grated cheese  and some  bread crumbs.  Repeat the same operation three or four times, according to the quantity, and finally season with  olive oil,   salt  and  pepper  and small pieces of  butter.  Put the pan over the fire and when it has begun to boil pour a small cup of   brown stock   or  broth  and a little  lemon juice.  Remove the same from the fire and pour it on the  chicken breast  that have been browned as described above.  
   46 WILD DUCK (Anitra selvatica) 
Clean the  duck,  putting aside the giblets, and cut off the head and legs. Chop fine a thick slice of  ham  with both lean and fat together, with a moderate amount of  celery,   parsley,   carrot  and half medium sized  onion.  Put the chopped  ham  and vegetables in a saucepan and lay the  duck  on the whole, seasoning with  salt  and  pepper.  Brown on all sides and add  water  to complete the cooking.   Cabbage  or  lentils,  cooked in  water  and afterward allowed to complete the cooking in the sauce obtained from the  duck,  form a good addition.  To remove the "gamey" taste from the  wild duck,  either wash it in  vinegar  before cooking or scald it in  boiling water.   
 
   47 STEWED SQUABS (Piccioni in umido) 
Garnish the  squabs  with whole  sage leaves  and place them in a saucepan over a bed of small slices of  ham  containing both lean and fat,season with  salt,   pepper  and  olive oil.  Place on the fire and when they begin to be browned, add a piece of  butter  and complete the cooking by pouring in some good  broth.  Before removing from the fire squeeze one  lemon  over them and garnish with squares or diamonds of  toasted bread.  Take care not to add too much  salt  on account of the  ham  and the  broth  both containing salt.  Note--Many of these dishes, it will be noticed, are made with  broth.  When  meat broth  is not available, it can be prepared with  bouillon cubes  or with  Liebig or Armour Extracts.  It is, however, always preferable to use broth made with fresh meat.  
   48 RAGOUT OF SQUABS (Manicaretto di piccione) 
Cut two or more  squabs  at the joints, preferably in four parts each; and put them on the fire with a slice of  ham,  a piece of  butter,  and a bunch of  parsley.  When they begin to dry, add some  broth  and--before they are completely  cooked--their  giblets  and fresh  mushrooms  cut in slices. Continue pouring in  broth  and allow the whole to simmer on a low fire. Add another piece of  butter  over which some  flour  has been sprinkled, or  flour  alone. Before serving, remove the ham and the bunch of greens and squeeze some  lemon juice  over the  squabs.   Some  sweetbread  may be added with good effect, but it must be first scalded and the skin removed.  
   49 SQUAB TIMBALE (Timballo di piccioni) 
Chop together some  ham,   onion,   celery  and  carrot,  add a piece of  butter  and place on the fire with one or two  squabs,  according to the number of guests. Add the  giblets  from the  squabs  and some more of chicken, if at hand. Season with  salt  and  pepper,  and when the  pigeons  are browned, pour over some  broth  to complete the cooking, taking care, however, that the sauce does not become too liquid. Remove the latter and place in it some  macaroni  that has been half cooked and drained. Keep the  macaroni  in the sauce on the fire, stirring them. Make a well reduced Bechamel sauce, then cut the  squabs  at the joints, removing the neck, the legs and the bones of the back, when you would not bone  them entirely, which would be better. Cut the  giblets  in small pieces and remove the soft part of the  onion.   When the  macaroni  have absorbed the sauce, season them with  grated cheese,  pieces of  butter,  diamonds or squares of  ham,  a taste of  nutmeg  and some  truffles  or  dry mushrooms  previously softened in  water.  Add finally the  Bechamel sauce  and mix the whole.  Take a sufficiently large mold, butter it and line it with soft  pastry.  Put everything in the mold, or  timbale,  cover it with the same pastry and put in the oven. Take out of the mold and serve hot. Three quarters of a pound of  macaroni  and two  pigeons  are enough for ten persons.  
   50 SALMI OF GAME (Uccelli in salmi) 
Roast the  game  completely, seasoning with  salt  and  pepper.  If the  game  be small birds, leave them whole, if big cut them in four parts. Remove all the heads and grind them together with some  pieces of birds,  or some  whole little birds.  Put in a saucepan one tablespoonful of  butter  one half pound of  bacon  or  ham  cut into dice,   brown stock   or  broth,  one tablespoonful each of chopped  onion  and  carrot,  one tablespoonful each of  salt,   thyme  and  sage.   Allow the sauce to simmer for half an hour then rub it through a sieve and place in it the roasted  game.  Make it boil until the cooking is completed and serve with toasted diamonds of  bread.   
   51 STEWED HARE (Stufato di lepre) 
Take half of a good sized  hare  and, after cutting it in pieces, chop fine one medium sized  onion,  one clove of  garlic,  a stalk of  celery  and several leaves of  rosemary.  Put on the fire with some pieces of  butter,  two tablespoonfuls of  olive oil  and four or five strips of  bacon  or  salt pork,  when the whole has been browning for four or five minutes, put the pieces of  hare  inside the saucepan and season them with  salt,   pepper  and  spices.  When it is browned, put a wineglass of  white wine,  some fresh  mushrooms,  or  dry mushrooms  previously softened in  water.  Complete the cooking with  broth  and   tomato sauce   and, if necessary, add another piece of  butter.   
   52 STEWED RABBIT (Coniglio in umido) 
After washing the  rabbit,  cut it in rather large pieces and put it on the fire to drive away the water that is to be drained. When quite dry, put  in the saucepan a piece of  butter,  a little  oil,  and a hash composed of the liver of the rabbit itself, a small piece of  corned beef  and some  onion,   celery,   carrot  and  parsley.  Season with  salt  and  pepper.  Stir often and when it is browned add some   tomato sauce   and another piece of  butter.   
   53 GREEN SAUCE (Salsa verde) 
Chop all together some  capers  that have been in  vinegar,  one  anchovy,  a small slice of  onion  and just a taste of  garlic.  Crush the resulting hash with the blade of a knife to make it very fine. Add a sprig of  parsley,  chopped together with some leaves of  basil  and dissolve the whole in very good  olive oil  and  lemon juice.   This sauce is excellent to season boiled chicken or cold boiled fish or hard boiled eggs.    Green Peppers  can take the place of capers, if these are not at hand.   
   54 WHITE SAUCE (Salsa bianca) 
This sauce can be served with boiled asparagus or with cauliflower. The ingredients are 1/4 lb. of  butter,  a tablespoonful of  flour,  a tablespoonful  vinegar,  one  yolk of egg,   salt  and  pepper,   broth  or  water  in sufficient quantity.  Put first on the fire the  flour  with half the  butter  and when it begins to be browned pour over it the  broth  or the  water  little by little, stirring with the wooden spoon and adding the rest of the  butter  and the  vinegar  without making the  water  boil too much. When taken off the fire add the  yolk of the egg,  stir and serve.  
   55 YELLOW SAUCE (Salsa gialla) 
This sauce is especially good for boiled fish, and the quantities indicated below are sufficient for a piece of fish or a whole fish weighing about a pound.  Put on the fire in a little saucepan one teaspoonful of  flour  and two ounces of  butter,  and when the  flour  begins to be browned, pour over it little by little one cup of the  broth of the fish,  that is to say of the water in which the fish has been boiled. When you see that the  flour  does not rise in the  boiling water,  take away the sauce from the  flour  and pour over two tablespoonfuls of  olive oil  and the  yolk of an egg,  stirring and mixing everything well. Squeeze in the sauce half a  lemon  and season generously with  salt  and  pepper.  Let it cool and then pour over the  fish  that is to be served with a sprig of parsley.   This sauce must have the appearance of a cream and must not be too liquid, in order that it may remain attached to the fish.  
   56 SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH (Salsa per pesce in gratella) 
This sauce is composed of  yolks of eggs,  salted  anchovies,   olive oil  and  lemon juice.  Boil the eggs in their shell for ten minutes and for every hard yolk take one large  anchovy  or two small. Bone the  anchovies  and rub them on the sieve together with the hard (or semi-hard) yolks, and dissolve all with  oil  and  lemon juice  to reduce it like a cream. Cover with this sauce the broiled fish before sending to the table, or serve aside in a gravy boat.  
   57 CAPER SAUCE (Salsa con capperi) 
This sauce is especially adapted for boiled fish and the quantities are for a little more than one pound of fish. The ingredients are two ounce of  butter,  two ounces of  capers  soaked in  vinegar  one teaspoonful of  flour,   salt,   pepper  and  vinegar.   Boil the fish and, when it is left warm in its broth, prepare the sauce. Put on the fire the  flour   with half of the  butter,  mix it and when it begins to take color, add the remaining  butter.   Let boil a little and then pour one half cup of the  broth of the fish:  season generously with  salt  and  pepper  and take the saucepan from the fire. Then throw in it the capers, half whole, half chopped, and some drops of  vinegar,  but taste it to dose the sauce so that it is pleasant to the taste and as thick as liquid cream.  It is well to observe here that these sauces in which butter is used together with acids, such as vinegar, are not for weak stomachs and should be partaken of sparingly.  
   58 GENOVESE SAUCE (Salsa genovese) 
Chop fine a sprig of  parsley  and half a clove of  garlic.  Then mix with some  capers  soaked in  vinegar,  one  anchovy,  one  hard yolk of egg,  three pitless  olives,  a  crumb of bread  as big as an egg, soaked in  vinegar.  Grind all these ingredients, rub through a sieve and dissolve in  olive oil,  dosing right by tasting.  
   59 BALSAMELLA SAUCE (Salsa balsamella) 
This sauce resembles the famous French B&#232;chamel Sauce, but it is simpler in its composition.   Put in a saucepan one tablespoonful of  flour  and a piece of  butter  as big as an egg. Stir the  flour  and the  butter  together while keeping them over the fire. When the  flour  begins to be browned, pour over a pint of  milk,  continually stirring with a wooden spoon until you see the liquid condensed like a cream. This is the  Balsamella.  If it is too thick add some  milk,  if too liquid put back on the fire with another piece of  butter  dipped in  flour.   A good  Balsamella  and some well prepared  brown stock  are the base and the principal secret of many savory dishes.  
   60 CURLED OMELET (Frittata in riccioli) 
Boil a bunch of  spinach  and rub it through a sieve. Beat two  eggs,  season with  salt  and  pepper  and mix with them enough  spinach  to make the  eggs  appear green. Put the frying pan on the fire with only enough  oil  to grease it and when very hot put in a portion of the  eggs,  moving the frying pan so as to make a very thin omelet. When well cooked, remove it from the frying pan and repeat the operation once or twice in order to have two or three very thin omelets. Put these one over the other and cut them in small strips that are to be browned in  butter   adding a little  grated cheese.  These strips of omelet, resembling noodles, form a tasty and attractive dressing for a fricandeau (veal stew) or a similar dish.  
   61 VEAL KIDNEY OMELET (Frittata di rognone di vitella) 
Take a  veal kidney,  open it lengthwise and leave all its fat. Season with  oil,   salt  and  pepper,  broil it and cut in thin slices. Beat enough  eggs  in proportion to the size of the  kidney,  season them with  salt  and  pepper,  both in moderate quantity and mix with them a sprig of  parsley  and some  grated cheese.  Put the sliced  kidney  in the  eggs,  mix all together and make an omelet with some  butter.   
   62 PUFF PASTE (Pasta sfoglia) 
The  Pasta sfoglia  is not too difficult to make and if the following instructions are carefully followed, this fine and light paste can easily be prepared. It is well to have a marble slab to roll it on but this is not absolutely necessary. A warm, damp day is not favorable for the making of the  Pasta sfoglia,  which succeeds better when the weather is cold and dry.   Mix half a pound of  flour  of the very best quality with a piece of  butter  as big as a walnut, some warm, but not hot  water,  enough  salt  and a teaspoonful of good  brandy.  When the paste is formed knead it well for about half an hour, first with the hands, then throwing it repeatedly with force against the  bread board.  Make a cake of a rectangular form, wrap it in cloth and let it rest for a while. Meanwhile work with the hand 1/2 lb. of  butter  that has been kept previously on ice or, better, in a bowl of ice-water, until it becomes smooth and flexible, then make of it a little cake like that of the paste and throw it in a bowl of  cold water.  When the dough has rested take the  butter  from the  water,  wipe it with a cloth and dip it in  flour.   Roll the paste only as long as it is necessary to enclose within the cake of  butter.  This is placed in the middle and the edges of the sheet of paste are drawn over it, closing well with fingers moistened in a little water so that no air remains inside. Then begin to flatten, first with the hands, then with the rolling pin, making the sheet as thin as possible, but taking care that the  butter  does not come out. If this happens throw at once a little  flour  where the  butter  appears and always have the marble slab (or  bread board ) and the rolling pin sprinkled with  flour.  Fold it over, making three even layers of paste, and again roll the folded strip, repeating the operation  six times and letting the paste rest from time to time for a few minutes. At the last time, fold it in two and reduce it to the necessary thickness that is, about one third of an inch. After each folding press the edges gently with the rolling pin to shut in the air, and turn the paste so as to roll in a different direction.  When the paste has had six turns cut it into the desired forms and put on ice, or in a cold place for twenty to thirty minutes before putting it on the oven, which must be very hot, with the greatest heat at the bottom.  The puff  past  is used for  pat&#232; shells and vol-au-vent cake  and for light pastries of all kinds.  
   63 PASTE FOR FRYING (Pastella per fritto) 
Dilute three teaspoonfuls of  flour  with two teaspoonfuls of  oil.  Add two  eggs,  a pinch of  salt,  and mix well.  This mixture will take on the aspect of a smooth cream and is used to glaze 
 
 fried brains, sweetbreads 
and the like. All these things are first to be scalded in  boiling salt water.  Add a pinch of  salt  and one of  pepper  when taking from the  water.  The  brains,   sweetbreads  etc. are then to be cut in irregular pieces, thrown into the paste, or cream, described above and fried in  oil  or good  lard.      In frying these are often united to 
 
 liver or veal cutlets. 
The  liver  must be cut in very thin slices and the  cutlets  beaten with the side of a big knife and given a good shape. Season with  salt  and  pepper,  dip in beaten  egg  and after a few hours sprinkle with  bread crumbs  and fry. Serve with  lemon.    
   64 CHICKEN STUFFING (Ripieno di pollo) 
The ingredients are 1/4 lb. lean  veal  or  pork  or  breast of turkey  and  chicken giblets.  Cook this meat together with a little hash of  onion,   parsley,   celery,   carrot  and  butter.  Season with  salt   pepper  and  spices,  moistening it with  broth.  Take dry from the fire, take off the soft parts of the  giblets,  add a few  dry mushrooms  softened in  water,  a little slice of  lean fat ham  and chop everything fine. Into the sauce that has remained from the cooking throw enough  breadcrumbs  to make a tablespoonful of hard soaked bread. Mix it with the chopped hash, add a pinch of  grated cheese  and two  eggs  and fill the  chicken  with all this, sewing up the opening afterwards. The  chicken  can be boiled or stewed. If boiled you will have an excellent bouillon, but pay attention when cutting the chicken to extract the stuffing in one piece in order to slice it.  
 
   65 MEAT STUFFING FOR VOL-AU-VENT (Ripieno di carne per pasticcini di pasta sfoglia) 
This stuffing can be made either with  stewed veal  or  chicken giblets  or  sweetbreads.  The latter are preferable, being more delicate and a taste of  truffles  greatly improves the stuffing. If  sweetbreads  are used, put them on the fire with a piece of  butter  and season with  salt  and  pepper.  When they have begun to take color, complete the cooking with some   brown stock,   then cut them in pieces as little as a bean. Add one or two spoons of  Balsmella  (see  No. 54 ) a little  tongue,  one or two slices of  ham  cut in little squares, a pinch of  grated cheese  and a taste of  nutmeg,  seeing that the ingredients are in such quantities as to make the mixture tasty and delicate. Leave it cool well, as in this way it hardens and can be worked better.  In order to enclose it in pat&#232; shells made with puff-paste (see  No. 57 ) there are two ways. One is to cook the shells filled with the stuffing, the other to fill them after they are cooked. In the first case put the stuffing in the prepared disk of paste, moisten the edge with a wet finger, cover with another disk of paste and cook. In the second case, which is more convenient because the shells can be prepared one day before, the two  disks are put together without the stuffing, but in the upper disk a circular cut must be made as large as a half dollar coin. The p&#224;t&#232; on cooking swells and leaves an empty space in the interior. Lifting with the point of a knife the little circle above, which has the form of a cover, the interior space can be made larger, filled with the stuffing and covered with the little cover. In this way it is enough to warm them before sending to the table. The puff-paste must always be glazed with the  yolk of eggs.    If a large vol-au-vent is to be filled instead of little pat&#232;-shells, a ragout of  chicken giblets  and  sweetbread,  cut in large pieces, is better.   
   66 PORK LIVER FRIED (Fegato di maiale fritto) 
Cut in to thin slices some  pork liver,  sprinkle with  flour  and fry in good  lard.  It must be served with its sauce. Squeeze in a  lemon  while it is frying.  
   67 FRIED CROQUETTES, BOLOGNA STYLE (Fritto composto alla Bolognese) 
Take a piece of stewed lean  veal,  a little  brain  boiled or stewed, and a slice of  ham.  Chop and grind everything fine. Add a  yolk of egg  or a   whole  egg,  according to the quantity, and a little  Balsamella  (see  No. 54 ). Put the hash on the fire and stir until the  egg  is cooked. Add finally  grated cheese,  a taste of  nutmeg,  and, if you have them, some  truffles  chopped very fine and put in a plate. When quite cold make some little balls as large as a walnut and roll them in  flour.  Then dip in beaten  egg  and  bread crumb  ground very fine, repeating the operation twice, and fry.  
   68 ROMAN FRY (Fritto alla Romana) I. 
Put on the fire a hash of  onion  and  butter  and when it is well browned cook in it a piece of lean  veal  seasoned with  salt  and  pepper.  When the meat begins to brown put in a little  sherry wine  to complete the cooking.  Pound the whole to soften it a little using the sauce remained and if this is not enough add some  broth  and finally the  yolk of an egg.  See that the whole is not softened too much.  Now take some  wafers,  not too thin and cut them in squares similar to those used by druggists. Beat one  egg  and the white from the other egg, then take a wafer, dip it in the  egg  and place it on a layer of  bread crumbs  ground fine. On the wafer put a little ball of the compound  above, then dip another wafer in the  egg,  make it touch the  bread crumbs  only from the part that remains outside, and with this cover the compound attaching it to the lower wafer. Sprinkle again with  bread crumbs  if necessary and put the piece aside repeating the operation until all the meat is disposed of. Cook in  oil  or  fat  and serve with  lemon.   With half a pound of meat about twenty filled wafers should be obtained.  
   69 ROMAN FRY II. 
This can be made when you happen to have some  breast of roast chicken  left over. Some  chicken breast,  two or three slices of  tongue  and  ham,  one tablespoonful of  grated cheese,  a taste of  nutmeg,  are the ingredients used. Remove the skin of the chicken and cut it as well as the  tongue  and the  ham,  into little cubes. Make a  Balsamella  (see  No. 54 ) in sufficient quantity and when it is cooked add the above ingredients and let it cool well to fry using the  wafer  as in the preceding.  
   70 RICE PANCAKE (Frittelle di riso) 
Cook thoroughly 1/4 lb. of  rice  in about a pint of  water  giving it taste with a little piece of  sugar   and a taste of  lemon peel.  Leave it cool and then add three  yolks of eggs  and a little  flour.  Mix well and let the whole rest for several hours. When you are going to fry beat the  white of an egg  to a froth, add it to the  rice  and throw into the frying pan one tablespoonful at a time.  Serve hot sprinkled with  confectionery sugar.   
   71 KIDNEY SAUTE' (Rognoni saltati) 
Take one large  kidney,  or two or three small  kidneys,  open them and remove all the fat. Cut lengthwise in thin slices,  salt  and pour as much  boiling water  as is needed to cover them. When the  water  is thoroughly cooled, drain it and wipe well the slices with a cloth, then put them in a frying pan with a small piece of  butter.  Turn them often and when they have cooked for five minutes put in a pinch of  flour  and season with  salt  and  pepper.  Leave them on the fire until thoroughly cooked and when you are going to take them away add another piece of  butter,  a sprig of chopped  parsley  and a little  broth  if needed. The  kidney  must not be kept too much on the fire, because in that case it hardens.  
 
   72 LEG OF MUTTON IN CASSEROLE (Cosciotto di castrato in cazzaruola) 
Take a  shoulder or a leg of mutton  and after having boned, it  lard  it with small pieces of  bacon  dipped in  salt  and  pepper.  Salt moderately the meat then tie it tight and put it on the fire in a pan that contains a piece of  butter  and one large  onion  larded with  clover.  When it begins to brown, take it away from the fire and add a cup of  broth,  or of  water,  a little bunch of  greens  and some  tomatoes  cut in pieces. Put again on a low fire and let it simmer for three hours, keeping the saucepan closed, but opening from time to time to turn the meat. When it is cooked, throw away the  onion,  rub the sauce through a sieve, remove its fat and put it with the meat when served. The  mutton  must not be overdone, for in this case it cannot be sliced.  
   73 STEWED CUTLETS (Scaloppine alla Livornese) 
Take some slices of tender  beef,  beat them well and put them in a saucepan with a piece of  butter.  When this is all melted, put one or two tablespoonfuls of  broth  to complete the cooking, season with  salt  and  pepper,  add a pinch of  flour   and before taking them from the fire put in a pinch of chopped  parsley.   
   74 CUTLETS OF CHOPPED MEAT (Scaloppine di carne battuta) 
Take some good lean  beef,  clean it well, removing all little skins and tendons, then first chop and after grind the meat fine in the  grinder.  Season with  salt,   pepper  and a pinch of  grated cheese.  Mix well and give the meat the form of a ball then with  bread crumbs  over and beneath flatten it with the rolling pin on the  bread board  making a sheet of meat as thick as a silver dollar. Cut it in square pieces, as large as the palm of the hand and cook in a saucepan with  butter.  When these cutlets are browned, pour over some  tomato sauce  and serve.  If you prefer, use your hands instead of the rolling pin and then you can give them the shapes you like.  If you have some left over meat this can perfectly well be mixed with the raw meat and chopped and ground together.  
   75 VEAL CUTLETS STEWED (Scaloppine alla Genovese) 
Cut some lean  veal meat  into slices and, supposing it be a pound or a little more, without  bones, chop one fourth of a middle-sized  onion  and put it in a saucepan with  oil  and a little piece of  butter.  Put over the cutlets, one layer over the other, season with  salt  and  butter  and put on the fire. When the meat which is below is browned put in a teaspoonful of  flour  and after a while a hash of  parsley  with half a clove of  garlic.  Then detach the cutlets the one from the other, mix them, let them drink in the sauce, then pour  hot water  and a little   tomato sauce.   Make it boil slowly and not much to complete the cooking and serve with abundant  sauce  and with little diamonds of  toast.   
   76 STUFFED CUTLET (Braciuoline ripiene) 
Slice from a piece of  veal  (about one pound) seven or eight cutlets and beat them well with a knife blade to flatten them. Then chop some tender  veal meat  and one or two slices of  ham  and add a small quantity of  marrow bone  (of veal) and  grated cheese.  The  marrow  and the  grated cheese  must be reduced to a paste with the blade of a knife. One  egg  is then added to tie up the hash and a pinch of  pepper,  but no salt on account of the  ham  and the  cheese  that already contain it. Spread the cutlets and put the hash in the middle, then roll them up and tie them with strong thread.   Now prepare a small hash with a little  onion,  a piece of  celery  a piece of  carrot  and a small quantity of  corned beef  and put it in the fire in a saucepan with a small piece of  butter,  at the same time that you put the cutlets. Season with  salt  and  pepper  and when they begin to brown pour some  tomato sauce  and complete the cooking with  water.  Before serving, remove the thread with which the cutlets have been tied.  
   77 MEAT OMELETTE (Polpettone) 
Take one pound of  veal,  without bones, clean it well taking away all skins and tendons and then chop it together with a slice of  ham.  Season moderately with  salt   pepper  and  spices,  add one whole  egg  then with moistened hands make a ball of the chopped meat and sprinkle with  flour.   Make a hash with two or three slices of  onion  (not more)  parsley,   celery,  and  carrot,  put it on the fire with a piece of  butter  and when it is browned throw in the  Polpettone.  Brown well on all sides and then pour in the saucepan half a tumbler of  water  in which half a tablespoonful of  flour  has been previously diluted. Cover and make it simmer on a very low fire, seeing that it doesn't burn. When you serve with the gravy squeeze the  juice of half a lemon  over it.   If desired a  hard boiled egg  can be put shelled in the center of the meat ball, so that it gives it a better appearance when sliced.  
   78 LAMB WITH PEAS (Agnello ai piselli) 
Take a piece of  lamb  from the hind side,  lard  it with two  cloves  of  garlic  cut in little strips and with some sprigs of  rosemary.  Chop fine a piece of  lard  and a slice of  corned beef.  Put the  lamb  on the fire with this hash and a little  oil  and let it brown after seasoning with  salt  and  pepper.  When it is browned add a piece of  butter,  some   tomato sauce,   or  tomato paste  dissolved in  water  or  soup stock  and complete the cooking. Take away the  lamb,  put the  peas  in the gravy, and when they have simmered a little and are cooked put back the  lamb  and serve.  
   79 SHOULDER OF LAMB (Spalla d'agnello) 
Cut the meat of a  shoulder of lamb  in small pieces, or squares. Chop two small  onions,  brown them with a piece of  butter  and when they are browned put the meat and season with  salt  and  pepper.  Wait until the meat begins to brown  and then add another piece of  butter  dipped in  flour.  Mix the whole and complete the cooking with  soup stock  or  water  with  bouillon cubes  poured in little by little.  
   80 BREAST OF VEAL STEWED (Stufatino di petto di vitella) 
Break a piece of  breast of veal  leaving all its bones.  Make a hash with  garlic,   parsley,   celery  and  carrot;  add  oil,   pepper  and  salt  and put on the fire with the meat. Turn it over often, and when it begins to brown, sprinkle over a pinch of  flour  and a little   tomato sauce   or  tomato paste  diluted in   water..   Complete the cooking with  broth  or  water.  Finally add a piece of  butter  and pieces of  celery  cut in big pieces which must have been before half cooked in  water  and browned in  butter.  Care must be taken to keep the saucepan always covered, in this as in other stews.  
   81 VEAL WITH GRAVY (Vitella in guazzetto) 
First take about one pound of  veal  and tie it well. Then cover the bottom of the saucepan with some thin slices of  corned beef  and a piece of  butter.  Over this place half a  lemon  cut in four thin slices from which the skin and the seeds must be removed. Over all this put the  veal  which must be well browned on all sides, but care must be taken not to burn it on account of the small quantity of liquid. Afterward, remove the superfluous fat and pour over a cup of  hot milk,  that has boiled. Cover the saucepan and complete the cooking. Before serving rub the gravy through a sieve.  
   82 TRIPE WITH GRAVY 
Boil some  tripe  in  water  and when it is boiled, cut it in strips, one quarter of an inch wide and wipe it well with a cloth. Then put it in a saucepan with  butter,  and when this is melted, add some   brown stock   or good   tomato sauce.   Season with  salt  and  pepper,  cook thoroughly and add a pinch of  grated cheese  before taking from the saucepan.  
   83 VEAL LIVER IN GRAVY (Fegato di vitella al sugo) 
Chop fine a  scallion  or an  onion,  make it brown in  oil  and  butter,  and when it has taken a dark red color, throw in the  liver  cut in thin slices. When half cooked season with  salt,   pepper  and  a pinch of chopped  parsley.  Make it simmer on a low fire so that the gravy remains, and serve in its gravy, squeezing over some  lemon juice  when sent to the table.  In this and in similar cases, when using scallions or onions, some advise putting these in a cloth after being chopped and dip them in  cold water  squeezing them dry after.  
   84 MUTTON CUTLETS AND FILET OF VEAL (Braciuole di castrato e filetto di vitella) 
Put in saucepan a slice of  ham,  some  butter,  a little bunch composed of  carrot,   celery  and stems of  parsley  and over this some whole cutlets of  mutton  seasoned with  salt  and  pepper.  Make them brown on both sides, add another piece of  butter,  if necessary, and add to the cutlets some  chicken giblets,   sweetbreads  and fresh or dry  mushrooms  (the latter softened in  water,  all cut in pieces. When all this begins to brown, pour some  soup stock  and let it simmer on a low fire. Sprinkle a little  flour  and finally pour a wineglass (or half a tumbler) of  white wine  leaving it boil a little more. When ready to serve remove the  ham  and the greens, rub the gray through a sieve and remove the superfluous fat.  
 
   85 TENDERLOIN WITH MARSALA (Filetto al marsala) 
Roll a piece of the  tenderloin,  tie it and, if it is about two pounds, put it on the fire with a middle-sized  onion  cut in thin slices, some thin slices of  ham  and a piece of  butter,  seasoning but moderately with  salt  and  pepper.  When it is browned from all sides and the  onion  is consumed, sprinkle a pinch of  flour,  let this take color and then pour some  soup stock  or  water.  Make it simmer on a low fire, then rub the gravy through a sieve, skim off the fat and with this and half a small tumbler of  Marsala or Sherry wine  put it back on the fire to simmer again. Serve with the gravy neither too liquid nor too thick.  The filet can also be larded with  bacon  and cooked in  butter  and  Marsala  only.  
   86 MEAT GENOVESE (Carne alla Genovese) 
Take thick slices of good lean  veal,  weighing about a pound, beat it and flatten it well. Beat three or four  eggs,  season them with  salt  and  pepper,  a pinch of  grated cheese  and some chopped  parsley.  Fry the  eggs  in  butter  in the form of an omelet about the size of the meat over  which it will be laid, cutting it where it overlaps and putting the pieces where it lacks so as to cover the meat entirely. After that roll tight the meat together with the omelet and tie it with thread. Then sprinkle some  flour  over it and put it in a saucepan with a piece of  butter,  seasoning with  salt  and  pepper.  When it is well browned on all sides, pour some  soup stock  to complete the cooking and serve it in its gravy which will be thick enough on account of the gravy.  
   87 RICE PUDDING WITH GIBLETS (Sfornato di riso con rigoglie) 
Make a good  brown stock  (see  No. 13 ) and use the same for the  rice  as well as for the  giblets.  To these add some thin slices of  ham  and brown them first in  butter,  seasoned moderately with  salt  and  pepper,  completing the cooking with  brown stock.  A taste of  mushrooms  will be found useful.  Brown the  rice  equally in  butter,  then complete the cooking with  hot water.  Drain and put the  brown stock,  adding  grated cheese  and two beaten  eggs,  when the  rice  has cooled a little.  Take a smooth mold, round or oval, grease it evenly with butter, cover the bottom with buttered paper and place in it the  rice  to harden it in the oven. When taken from the mold pour over  the gravy from the giblets,  slighthly  thickened with a pinch of  flour  and serve with the  giblets  around, seeing that there is plenty of gravy for them.  
   88 PUDDING GENOESE (Budino alla genovese) 
Chop together a slice of  veal,  some  chicken breast  and two slices of  ham  and then grind or better pound them, with a small piece of  butter,  a tablespoonful of  grated cheese  and a  crumb of bread  soaked with  milk.  Rub through a sieve and add three tablespoonfuls of  Balsamella  (see  No. 54 ) which you will make thick enough for this dish, three  eggs  and just a taste of  nutmeg,  mixing everything well.  Take a smooth mold, grease it evenly with butter and put on the bottom a sheet of paper, cut according to the shape of the bottom and equally greased with butter. Pour over the above ingredients and cook in a vessel immersed in boiling water ( double boiler ).  When taken from the mold, remove the paper and in its place put a gravy formed with chopped  chicken giblets  cooked in   brown stock.   Serve hot.  
 
   89 LIVER LOAF (Pane di fegato) 
Cut about one pound of  veal liver  in thin slices and four  chicken livers  in two parts and put all this in a saucepan with  rosemary  and a piece of  butter.  When this is melted put in another piece and season with  salt  and  pepper.  After four or five minutes at a live fire, remove the liver (dry) and grind it together with the  rosemary.  In the gravy that remains in the saucepan put a big  crumb of bread,  cut into small pieces and make a paste that will also be ground with the liver. Then rub everything through a sieve, add one whole  egg  and two  yolks  and a pinch of  grated cheese,  diluting with   brown stock   or  water.  Finally put in a smooth mold with a sheet of paper in the bottom, all evenly greased with  butter  and cook in a  double boiler.  Remove from the mold when cool and serve cold, with gelatine.  
   90 VEAL WITH TUNNY (Vitello tonnato) 
Take two pounds of meat without bones, remove the fat and tendons, then lard it with two  anchovies.  These must be washed and boned and cut lengthwise, after opening them, making  in all eight pieces. Tie the piece of meat not very tight and boil it for an hour and a half in enough  water  to cover it completely. Previously put into the  water  one quarter of an  onion  larded with  clover,  one leaf of  laurel,   celery,   carrot  and  parsley.  Salt the  water  generously and don't put the  veal  in until it is boiling. When the  veal  is cooked, untie, dry it and keep it for two or three days in the following sauce in quantity sufficient to cover it.  Grind 1/4 pound  tunny fish  preserved in  olive oil  and two  anchovies,  crush them well with the blade of a knife and rub through a sieve adding good  olive oil  in abundance little by little, and squeeze in one whole  lemon,  so that the sauce should remain liquid. Finally mix in some  capers  soaked in  vinegar.   Serve the  veal  cold, in thin slices, with the sauce.  The stock of the veal can be rubbed through a sieve and used for risotto.  
   91 STUFFED ITALIAN SQUASH (Zucchini ripieni) 
For a description of the  Zucchini  see  No. 32.   To make the stuffed  zucchini  first cut them lengthwise in two halves and remove the interior pulp, leaving space enough for the filling.   Take some lean  veal  (quantity in proportion to the squashes) cut it into pieces and place in on the fire in a saucepan with a hash of  onion,   parsley,   celery,   carrot,  a little  corned beef  cut in little pieces, a little  oil,   salt  and  pepper.  Stir it often with a spoon and when the meat is brown pour in a cup of  water  and then another after a while. Then rub the gravy through a sieve and put it aside.  Chop the cooked meat fine and grind it in the  grinder  and make a hash of it and one  egg,  a little  grated cheese,  a  crumb of bread  boiled in  milk  or in  soup stock  and just a taste of  nutmeg.  Put this hash inside each half  squash  and put them to brown in  butter,  completing the cooking with the  gravy  set aside.  
   92 STRING BEANS AND SQUASHES SAUTE' (Fagiolini e zucchini saut&#232;) 
Brown in  butter  some  string beans,  that have been previously half cooked in  water  and some raw  squashes  cut in cubes. Put the squashes in only when the  butter  is beginning to brown. Season moderately with  salt  and  butter  and add some   brown stock   or good   tomato sauce.    
 
   93 STRING BEANS WITH EGG SAUCE (Fagiuolini in salsa d'uovo) 
Take less than a pound of  string beans,  cutting off the two points and removing all the strings, and then cook them partially in  water  moderately salted. Take them from the kettle, drain, and brown with  butter,   salt  and  pepper.  Beat one  yolk  with a teaspoonful of  flour  and the  juice of half a small lemon,  dilute with half a cup of  cold broth  from which the fat has been removed and put this liquid on the fire in a small saucepan stirring continually. When the liquid has become, through the cooking, like a cream, pour it on the  string beans  that you will keep on the fire a little longer, with the sauce. The  string beans  so prepared can be served with boiled beef.  
   94 STRING BEANS IN MOLD (Sformato di fagiolini) 
Take one pound of  string beans,  seeing that they are quite tender. Cut off the ends and remove the strings. Throw them into  boiling water  with a pinch of  salt  and when they are half cooked take them away and put them in  cold water.  If you have   brown stock   complete the cooking with this and with  butter,  otherwise brown a piece of  onion,  some  parsley,  a piece of  celery  and  olive oil.  When the  onion  is browned put in the  string beans  and complete the cooking with a little  water  if necessary.  Prepare a   Balsamella  sauce  ( No.54 ) with a small piece of  butter,  half a teaspoonful of  flour  and half a cup of  milk.  With this, a tablespoonful of  grated cheese  and four beaten  eggs  bind the  string beans  when they are cold, mix and put in a mold, evenly greased with butter and the bottom covered with paper. Cook in a  double boiler  and serve hot.  
   95 CAULIFLOWER IN MOLD (Sformato di cavolfiore) 
Take a good sized  cauliflower,  remove the stalk and outside leaves, half cook it in  water  and then cut it into small pieces.  Salt  them and put them to brown with a little piece of  butter  and then complete the cooking with a cup of  milk.  Then rub them through a sieve. Prepare a Balsamella (No.54) and add it to the  cauliflower  with 3 beaten  eggs  and a tablespoonful of  grated cheese.   Cook in a greased mold and serve hot.  
 
   96 ARTICHOKES IN MOLD (Sformato di carciofi) 
Remove the outside leaves of the  artichokes,  the harder part of all leaves, and clean the stalks without removing them.  Cut each  artichoke  into four parts and put them to boil in  salt water  for only five minutes. If left longer on the fire they become too soaked in water and lose their taste. Remove from the  water,  drain them, grind or pound and rub them through a sieve. Season the pulp so obtained with two or three beaten  eggs,  two or three tablespoonfuls of  Balsamella  ( No. 54 )  grated cheese,   salt  and a taste of  nutmeg,  but taste the seasoning several times to see that it is correctly dosed.  Place in a mold with   brown stock   or  meat gravy  (in that case use a mold with a hole) and cook in  double boiler.   
   97 FRIED MUSHROOMS (Funghi fritti) 
Choose middle-sized  mushrooms,  which are also of the right ripeness: when they are too big they are too soft and if small they are too hard.  Scrape the stems, wash them carefully but do not keep in water, for then they would lose their  pleasant odor. Then cut them in rather large slices and dip them in  flour  before putting in the frying pan.  Olive oil  is best for frying  mushrooms  and the seasoning is composed exclusively of  salt  and  pepper  to be applied when they are frying. They can also be dipped in beaten  eggs  after being sprinkled with  flour,  but this is superfluous.  
   98 STEWED MUSHROOMS (Funghi in umido) 
For a stew the  mushrooms  ought to be below middle-size. Clean, wash and cut as for the preceding. Put a saucepan on the fire with  olive oil,  one or two cloves of  oil  and some  mint leaves.  When the  oil  begins to splutter, put the  mushrooms  in without dipping in  flour,  season with  salt  and  pepper  and when they are half cooked pour in some   tomato sauce.   Be sparing however, with the seasoning, in order that the  mushrooms  do not absorb it too much and so lose some of their own delicate flavor.  
   99 DRIED MUSHROOMS (Funghi secchi) 
 Mushrooms  are an excellent condiment of various dishes and for this reason it is well to have some always at hand. Since, however, it is not  always possible to have them fresh, the following recipe to prepare  dried mushrooms  will be found useful.  First of all wait until there is a sunny day. Choose young  mushrooms  middle sized or big, but not too soft. Scrape the stem, clean them well in order to remove the earth and, without washing cut them in big pieces. This because when dried they diminish considerably in size. Keep these pieces exposed in the sun for two or three days, then thread them on a string (practising a hole in them) and keep in a well ventilated room or in the sun until they become quite dry. Then put them away well closed in a paper bag, but don't fail to look at them from time to time to see if it is necessary to expose them some more to sun and ventilation.  To use them soften in warm water, but keep them in as little as possible, so that they do not lose their delicate flavor. The best time to dry the  mushrooms  is June or July.  
   100 FRIED EGG-PLANTS (Melanzane fritte) 
 Egg-plant  or, as they are also called,  mad-apples  are an excellent vegetable which may be used as dressing or as a dish by itself. Small or middle-sized  egg-plants  are to be preferred, as  the big ones have sometimes a slightly bitter taste.  Remove the skin, cut into cubes,  salt  and leave them in a plate for a few hours. Then wipe them to remove the juice that they have thrown out, dip in  flour  and fry in  oil.   
   101 STEWED EGG-PLANTS (Melanzane in umido) 
Remove the skin, cut them into cubes and place on the fire with a piece of  butter.  When this is all absorbed, complete the cooking with  tomato sauce  ( No. 12 ).  
   102 EGG-PLANTS IN THE OVEN (Melanzane al forno) 
Skin five or six  egg-plants,  cut them in round slices and  salt  them so that they throw out the water that they contain. After a few hours dip in  flour  and frying  oil.   Take a  fireproof vase  or baking tin and place the slices in layers, with  grated cheese  between each layer, abundantly seasoned with  tomato sauce  ( No. 12 ).  Beat one  egg  with a pinch of  salt,  a tablespoonful of  tomato sauce,  a teaspoonful of  grated  cheese  and two of  crumbs of bread,  and cover the upper layer with this sauce. Put the vase in the oven and when the egg is coagulated, serve hot.  
   103 DRESSING OF CELERY (Sedano per contorno) 
The following are three ways to prepare  celery  to be served as seasoning or seasoning for meat dishes. For the first two make the pieces about four inches long, and two inches for the third. The stalk must be skinned, cut crosswise and left attached to the rib of the  celery.  Boil it in  water moderately salted  not over five minutes and remove dry.   1. Put the  celery  to brown in  butter,  then complete the cooking with  brown stock  ( No. 13 ) and sprinkle with  grated cheese  when serving.    2. Put in saucepan a piece of  butter  and a hash made with  ham  and a middle sized  onion,  chopped fine. Add two  cloves  and make it boil. When the  onion  is browned add  soup stock  or  hot water  with  bouillon cubes  and complete the cooking. Then rub everything through a sieve and put the gravy in a plate with the  celery,  seasoning with  pepper  only, as the  salt  is already in the  ham  and serve with the gravy.   3. Dip the  celery  in  flour  and in the  paste for frying  ( No. 58 ) and fry in  fat  or  oil.  Or else  dip in  flour  and then in beaten  egg,  wrap in  bread crumbs  and fry.  
   104 ARTICHOKES WITH SAUCE (Carciofi in salsa) 
Remove the hard leaves of the  artichokes,  cut the points and skin the stalk. Divide each  artichoke  into four parts or six if they are big, and put them on the fire with  butter  in proportion, seasoning with  salt  and  pepper.  Shake the saucepan to turn them and when they have absorbed a good part of the melted  butter,  pour in some  broth  to complete the cooking. Remove them dry, and in the gravy that remains put a pinch of chopped  parsley,  one or two teaspoonfuls of  cheese  grated fine,  lemon juice,  more  salt  and  pepper  if needed, and, mixing the whole, make it simmer for a while. Then remove the sauce from the fire and add one or two  yolks of egg,  according to the quantity and put back on the fire with more  broth  to make the sauce loose. Put the  artichokes  in the sauce this second time to heat them and serve especially as a side-dish for boiled meat.  
   105 STUFFED ARTICHOKES (Carciofi ripieni) 
Cut the stalk at the base, remove the small outside leaves and wash the  artichokes.  Then cut  the top and open the internal leaves so that you can cut the bottom with a small knife and remove the hairy part if it is there. Keep aside the small interior leaves to put them with the stuffing. This, if to be used, for example, for six  artichokes,  must be composed of the above small leaves, 1/8 lb. of  ham  more lean than fat, one fourth of a small  onion,  just a taste of  garlic,  some leaves of  celery  or  parsley,  a pinch of  dry mushrooms,  softened in  water,  a  crumb of bread  and a pinch of  pepper,  but no salt.  First chop the  ham,  then grind everything together and with the hash fill the  artichokes,  and put them to cook standing on their stalks in a saucepan with some  oil,   salt  and  pepper.  Some prefer to give the  artichokes  a half cooking in  water  before  stuffing  it, but it is hardly advisable, because in this way they lose part of their special flavor.  
   106 ARTICHOKES STUFFED WITH MEAT (Carciofi ripieni di carne) 
For six  artichokes,  make the following stuffing:  1/4 lb. lean  veal.   Two slices of  ham,  more fat than lean.  The interior part of the  artichokes.   One fourth of  onion  (small).   Some leaves of  parsley.   One pinch of softened  dried mushrooms.   One small  crumb of bread  rolled and sifted.  One pinch of  grated cheese.     When the  artichokes  have been browned with  oil  alone, pour a little  water  and cover with a moistened cloth kept in place by the cover. The steam that surrounds the  artichokes  cooks them better.  
   107 PEAS WITH ONION SAUCE (Piselli alla francese) 
The following recipe is good for one of fresh  peas.  Take two young  onions,  cut them in half, put some stems of  parsley  in the middle and tie them. Then put them into the fire with a piece of  butter  and when they are browned, pour over a cup of  soup stock.  Make it boil and when the  onions  are softened rub them through a sieve together with the  gravy  that you will then put on the fire with the  peas  and two whole  hearts of lettuce.  Season with  salt  and  pepper  and let it simmer. When the  peas  are half cooked add another piece of  butter  dipped in a scant tablespoonful of  flour  and pour in some  broth,  if necessary. Before sending to the table put in two  yolks of eggs  dissolved in a little  broth.    II   The following recipe is simpler than the preceding, but not so delicate. Cut an  onion  in very thin slices and put it on the fire in a saucepan with a little  butter.  When it is well browned add a pinch of  flour,  mix and then add according to the quantity, a cup or two of  soup stock  or  water  with  bouillon cubes  and allow the  flour  to cook. Put in the  peas,  season with  salt  and  pepper  and add, when they are half cooked, one or two whole  hearts of lettuce.  Let it simmer, seeing that the gravy is not too thick.   Before serving remove the lettuce.  
   108 PEAS WITH HAM (Piselli col prosciutto) 
Cut in two one or two young  onions,  according to the quantity of the  peas  and put them on the fire with  oil  and one thick slice of  ham  cut into small cubes. Brown until the  ham  is shrivelled; then put the  peas  in, season with a pinch of  pepper  and very little  salt,  mix and complete the cooking with  broth,  adding a little  butter.   Before serving, throw the onion away.  
 
   109 PEAS WITH CORNED BEEF (Piselli con la carne secca) 
Put on the fire a hash of  corned beef,   garlic,   parsley  and  oil,  season with a little  salt  and  pepper  and when the  garlic  is browned, put the  peas  in. When they have absorbed the sauce, complete the cooking with  broth  or, failing that, with  water.   
   110 STUFFED TOMATOES (Pomodori ripieni) 
Select ripe middle-sized  tomatoes,  cut them in two equal parts and scoop out the inside seeds. Season with  salt  and  pepper  and fill the  tomatoes  with the following hash, in such a way as to make the stuffing come over the edge of the half tomato:  Make a hash with  onion,   parsley  and  celery,  put it on the fire with a piece of  butter  and when it is browned, put in a small handful of  dried mushrooms  previously softened in  water  and chopped very fine: add a tablespoonful of  bread crumbs  soaked in  milk,  season with  salt  and  pepper  and let the compound simmer, moistening with  water  if necessary. When you take from the fire add, when it is still lukewarm,  grated cheese   and a beaten  yolk (or two) of egg,  but seeing that the compound does not become too liquid.  When the  tomatoes  are filled, take them in the oven with a little  butter  and  oil  mixed together and serve them as a side-dish for roast beef or steak.   The stuffed  tomatoes  can be made simpler with a hash of  garlic  and  parsley  mixed with  bread crumbs,   salt  and  pepper  and seasoned with  oil  when they are in the saucepan.   
   111 CAULIFLOWER WITH BALSAMELLA (Cavolfiore colla balsamella) 
Remove from a good sized  cauliflower  the external leaves and the green ribs, make a deep cut crosswise in the stalk and cook it in  salted water.  Then cut it in sections and brown with  butter,   salt  and  pepper.  Put it in a baking tin, throw over a small pinch of  grated cheese,  cover with the  balsamella  ( No. 54 ) and brown the surface.  Serve this cauliflower as an  entremets  or as a side-dish with boiled chicken or a stew.  
   112 STUFFED CABBAGE (Cavolo ripieno) 
Take a big  cabbage,  remove the hard outside leaves, cut the stem off even with the leaves  and give it half cooking in  salt water.  Put it upside down to drain, then open the leaves one by one until the heart is exposed and on this put the stuffing. Bring up all the leaves, close them and tie with thread crosswise.  The stuffing can be made with  milk veal  stewed alone, or with  sweetbread  or  chicken liver,  all chopped fine. To make it more delicate, add some  balsamella  ( No. 54 ) a pinch of  grated cheese,  one  yolk of egg  and a taste of  nutmeg.  Complete the cooking of the  cabbage  in the sauce of this stew, adding a little  butter,  on a low fire or in the oven kept low.  Instead of filling the whole  cabbage,  the larger leaves may be filled one by one, rolling and tying them.  
   113 SIDE-DISH OF SPINACH (Spinaci per contorno) 
After cooking the  spinach  in  boiling water  and chopping them fine, the  spinach  can be cooked in different ways:  1. With  butter,   salt  and  pepper,  adding a little   brown stock,   if you have it, or a few tablespoonfuls of  broth,  or  milk.    2. With onion sauce ( onion  chopped very fine) and  butter.     3. With  butter   salt  and  pepper,  adding a very small pinch of  grated cheese.      4. With  butter,  a drop of  olive oil  and  tomato sauce  ( No. 12 ) or  tomato paste  diluted with  soup stock  or  water.    
   114 ASPARAGUS (Sparagi) 
 Asparagus  can be prepared in many different ways, but the simplest and best is that of boiling them and serving them seasoned with  olive oil  and  vinegar  or  lemon juice.  However there are other ways as, for instance, the following: Put them whole to brown a little with the green part in  butter  and, after seasoning them with  salt,   pepper  and a pinch of  grated cheese,  pour over the  melted butter  when it is browned. Or else divide the  white  from the green part and place them as follows in a fireproof plate: Dust the bottom with  grated cheese  and dispose over the points of the  asparagus  one near the other; season with  salt,   pepper,   grated cheese  and little pieces of  butter.  Make another layer of  asparagus  and, seasoning in the same way, continue until you have them. Be moderate in the seasoning. Cross the layers of  asparagus  like a trestle, put on the oven and keep until the seasoning, is melted. Serve hot.  If you have some   brown stock,   parboil them first and complete the cooking with brown stock,  adding a little bust and dusting moderately with  grated cheese.   
   115 FISH WITH BREAD CRUMBS (Pesce col pane grattato) 
This, which can also be served as a side-dish, is made especially when you have boiled  fish  of good quality left over.  Cut it into little pieces, remove carefully all the bones, then put it in the  balsamella  ( No. 54 ) and season with enough  salt,   grated cheese  and some  mushrooms  chopped fine. If  dried mushrooms  soften in  water  first. Then take a fireproof plate,  grease  it evenly with  butter  and dust with  bread crumbs  ground fine; pour into it the  fish  prepared as above and cover with a thin layer of  bread crumbs.  Finally put over a piece of  butter,  brown in the oven and serve hot.  
   116 STEWED FISH CUTLETS (Pesce a taglio in umido) 
The  fish  that can be used for this dish are the  tunny,  the  umber  or  grayling,  the  sword fish  and any piece of fish of large size and good savor. A pound may be sufficient for four or five persons.   Remove the scales, clean and dry well, dip in  flour  and put to brown in a little  oil.  Remove dry, throw away the  oil  that remains and clean the saucepan. Make a hash, chopped very fine, with half a middle sized  onion,  a piece of  white celery  and a good pinch of  parsley.  Put this to brown on the fire with sufficient  oil  and season with  salt,   pepper  and one whole  clove.  When it is browned put abundant  tomato sauce  ( No 12 ) or  tomato paste  diluted in  broth  or  water.  Let it simmer for a while, then place the  fish  to complete the cooking, turning it over frequently. The  fish  must be served with this thick gravy that ought to be abundant.  
   117 WHITING WITH ANCHOVY SAUCE (Merluzzo alla Palermitana) 
Take one  whiting,  one pound or a little more, and trim all the fins, leaving the tail and the head. Split it to remove the bone, and season with a little  salt  and  pepper.  Turn it on the back, grease with  oil,  season with  salt  and  pepper,  dust with  bread crumbs  then lay it with two tablespoonfuls of  oil  on a fireproof plate or baking tin.  Take three or four good sized  anchovies,  bone and clean them, chop them and put on the fire with two tablespoonfuls of  oil,  but do not allow   it to boil. With this sauce cover the back of the  fish  and dust it all with  bread crumbs,  putting also some leaves of  rosemary.  Bake in the oven, allowing a little crust to form over, but see that it doesn't dry up, pouring over to this purpose more  oil.  Before removing from the tin squeeze half a  lemon  over.  This dish can be served surrounded by little toast with caviar, or anchovies and butter.  
   118 STEWED EEL (Anguille in umido) 
For this dish it is preferable to have good sized  eels  that must not be skinned, but cut in small pieces.  Chop some  onion  and  parsley,  put it on the fire with  oil,   salt,  and  pepper,  and when the  onion  is browned, add the pieces of  eel.  Wait until it has absorbed the taste of the onion sauce and then complete the cooking with  tomato sauce  ( No. 12 ).  See that there is plenty of gravy and serve with little squares or diamonds of  toast.   
   119 EELS WITH PEAS (Anguille coi piselli) 
Cook the  eels  as above with the  onion sauce  and when it is cooked remove it dry to cook the  green peas  in the sauce. The pieces of  eel  should be put back in the sauce to be warmed. No tomato sauce is necessary here.  
   120 MUSSELS WITH EGG SAUCE (Arselle in salsa d'uovo) 
A good washing with fresh  water  is sufficient for  mussels  that do not have any sand to be cleaned away. Put them on the fire with a sauce of  oil,   garlic,   parsley  and a pinch of  pepper.  Shake them and keep the saucepan covered seeing that they do not absorb all of the sauce. Take them out when they are open and prepare the following  sauce:  one or more  yolks of egg,  according to the quantity,  lemon juice,  one teaspoonful of  flour,   broth  and some of their own  juice.  Cook this sauce until it becomes a smooth cream and pour it on the  mussels  when they are served.  
   121 MUSSELS WITH TOMATO SAUCE (Arselle alla livornese) 
Chop fine half an  onion  and put it on the fire with  oil  and a pinch of  pepper.  When the  onion  begins to brown add a pinch of  parsley  chopped not very fine and after put in the  mussels  with  tomato sauce  ( No. 12 ) or  tomato paste  diluted in  water.  Shake them often and when they are open, put them over slices of  toast  prepared beforehand and arranged on a plate.  
   122 CODFISH (Baccal&#224;) I 
Freshen and soak the  codfish  in  cold water,  changing the  water  two or three times, or, better, keeping it for some time in a vase under running  cold water.  Then cut it into pieces as large as the palm of the hand and dip them in  flour  until they are well covered. Then put a kettle or a saucepan on the fire with plenty of  oil  and two or three cloves of  garlic,  whole but a little crushed. When the  garlic  begins to brown put in the  codfish  and brown it on both sides, stirring it often, so that it doesn't burn. Salt is not necessary, or at least only a little after tasting, but a little  pepper  will not be amiss. Finally pour over some  tomato sauce  ( No. 12 ) or  tomato paste  diluted in  water,  let it boil a little more and serve.   123 II   The following is another way to prepare the  codfish,  slightly different from the preceding. Cut the  codfish  as above, then put it as it is in saucepan with some  olive oil.  Spread over it a hash of  garlic  and  parsley  and season with a pinch of  pepper,   oil  and little pieces of  butter.  Cook on a good fire and turn it with care, because, not being sprinkled with  flour,  it breaks easily. When it is cooked, squeeze a  lemon  over and serve.   
   124 FRIED CODFISH (Baccal&#224; fritto) 
Place the  codfish  on the fire--after washing as explained in  No. 107 --in a kettle with  cold water  and   as salt,   and as soon as the  water  boils, remove the  codfish.   After boiling cut it in little pieces and remove all the bones. Sprinkle some  flour  and dip in a frying paste composed of  water,   flour  and a little  oil.  Fry in  oil  and serve hot.  
   125 CODFISH CROQUETTES (Cotolette di baccal&#224;) 
Boil as explained above and, if the quantity is one pound or a little more put together two  anchovies  and some  parsley,  chopping everything together very fine. Add some  pepper,  a tablespoonful of  grated cheese,  three or four tablespoonfuls of pap, composed of  bread crumbs  in large pieces,  water  and  butter,  and two  eggs.  Give the compound the form of several flat cutlets, dip them in beaten  egg  and in  ground bread crumbs.  Fry in  oil  and serve with  lemon,  or   tomato sauce.    
   126 FRIED DOG-FISH (Palombo fritto) 
Cut the  dogfish  in slices, not very thick, and place it in a plate with beaten  eggs  somewhat salted. Leave for some hours until half an hour before frying, dip the slices in a mixture of  bread crumbs,   grated cheese,   garlic  and  parsley  chopped fine,  salt  and  pepper.  A clove of  garlic  is sufficient for one pound of fish. Fry in  oil  and serve with  lemon.   
   127 STEWED DOG-FISH (Palombo in umido) 
Cut the  dog-fish  in rather big pieces and then make a hash of  garlic,   parsley  and very little  onion.  Put this hash on the fire with  oil  and  when it is sufficiently browned, put the pieces of  dog-fish  and season with  salt  and  pepper.  When the fish is cooked pour over some  tomato sauce  ( No. 12 ), let this simmer for a while, then serve.  
   128 ROAST-BEEF (Arrosto) 
Although roast-beef is not an Italian dish, still it is prepared in a peculiar way by the Italians, and hence this recipe finds its place here.  To obtain a good roast-beef not less than two pounds ought to be cooked on a strong fire. It ought to be covered with good  olive oil  and finally with cup of  soup stock  which with the oil and the juice from the meat will form a rich  gravy,   Salt  it only when it is half cooked and do it moderately, because the  beef  is already tasty by itself.  Put it on the fire half an hour before the soup is served and the meal begins. This will be sufficient if the piece is not very big. To ascertain the cooking prick it in the bigger part with a thin  larding-pin,  but not often, in order not to allow too much juice to escape. The juice must neither be of the color of the blood nor too dark.  If baked it is to be seasoned with  salt,   oil  and a piece of  butter,  surrounded by raw  potatoes   peeled. Pour in the kettle a cup of  broth  or of  water.  If you do not like cold roast beef, cut it into slices and warm with  butter  and   brown stock   or   tomato sauce.    
   129 ROAST VEAL (Arrosto di vitella) 
Choose for that  milk veal  that is to be found all the year round, although it is always better during the spring or summer.  The piece or pieces of  veal  can be cooked in a saucepan, slightly larded with  garlic  and  rosemary,  with  oil,   butter  and a hash of  corned beef,   salt,   pepper  and   tomato sauce.   In the gravy fresh  peas  can be cooked.  
   130 POT ROAST (Arrosto morto) 
This can be done with all kinds of meats, but the best is  milk veal.  Take a good piece of the loins, roll it and tie with a string and put on the fire with good  olive oil  and  butter,  both in small quantity. Brown well from all sides,  salt  when half cooked and complete the cooking with a half cup of  broth,  seeing that little juice remains. If no  broth  is at hand, use   tomato sauce,   or  tomato  paste  diluted with  water.  Some  corned beef  chopped fine can also be added.  
   131 POT ROAST WITH GARLIC AND ROSEMARY (Arrosto morto coll'odore dell'aglio e del ramerino) 
Cook the meat as above, but add a clove of  garlic  and one or two bunches of  rosemary  in the saucepan. When serving the roast rub the gravy through a sieve without pressing and surround the meat with potatoes or vegetables cooked apart.  The  leg of lamb  comes very well in this way, baked in the oven.  
   132 BIRDS (Arrosto di uccelli) 
The best way to cook  birds,  and that nearly always used by the Italians, is roasted at the spit. They must be spitted with a small slice of  bread  between each bird. Also wrap each bird in very thin slices of  bacon,  in such a way that it can be spitted with this covering. Mind to slice the  bacon  almost as thin as paper. Pass some  oil --only once--over when they begin to brown, using  a brush or a feather, and  salt  only once, moderately.  Put on the fire when near to be served, otherwise they may get dry and lose much of their flavor. The cooking is rapidly done if on a good fire.  
   133 ROAST OF LAMB (Arrosto d'agnello) 
Take a  leg of lamb  and season it with  salt,   pepper,   oil  and a drop of  vinegar.  Pierce it here and there with the point of a knife and leave it like this for several hours. Also lard it with  bay leaf  or  rosemary  to be removed when serving. The  leg of lamb  can be baked or, as the Italians do, cooked at the spit.  
    124  LEG OF MUTTON (Cosciotto di castrato arrosto) 
Before cooking see that several days elapse after the animal has been butchered. This, naturally, according to the temperature. Beat it well with a wooden mallet, then skin and remove the middle bone, without spoiling the  meat.  Then tie it and give it a good fire at the beginning, covering the fire when half cooked. Let it cook in its  own juice and in a cup of  broth  strained to remove the fat; nothing else.  Salt  when it is almost cooked, but see that it is neither too well done nor rare, just medium. Serve with its juice apart in a sauce.  
   135 ROAST OF HARE (Arrosto di lepre) 
The part of the  hare  fitted for roast is the hind quarters, but the limbs of this game are covered with little skins that must be carefully removed, before cooking, without cutting the muscles.  Before roasting keep it soaking for twelve or fourteen hours in a liquid prepared as follows: put on the fire in a kettle three tumblers of  water  with half a tumbler of  vinegar  or less in proportion with the piece to be cooked, three of four  scallions  chopped fine, one or two  bay-leaves,  a bunch of  parsley,  a little  salt  and a pinch of  pepper;  make it boil for five or six minutes, cool and pour when cold over the  hare.  When you remove the latter from the liquid wipe it and lard it all with little pieces of good  bacon.   Cook on a low fire,  salt  it sufficiently and grease with  cream  and nothing else. Never use the liver of the  hare  which, it is said, is very indigestible.  
 
   136 POT ROAST LARDED (Arrosto morto lardellato) 
Take a piece short and thick of  beef  or  veal,  quite tender and weighing about two pounds or a little more. Lard it with  ham  or  bacon  cut in little pieces. Tie with a string and put it in a  stewpan  with a piece of  butter,  one fourth of a middle-sized  onion  cut in two pieces, three or four ribs of  celery  half an inch thick and as many slices of  carrot.  Season with  salt  and  pepper  and when the meat begins to brown--turning it often--pour over one cup of  water  and complete the cooking on a low fire, leaving it to absorb great part of the gravy. See, however, that it doesn't dry up and become black. When you send to the table strain the juice that has remained and pour it on the meat, that may be surrounded with potatoes cut in pieces or kept whole if small, previously browned in butter or oil.  
   137 PIGEON SURPRISE (Piccione a sorpresa) 
The  pigeon  (or  chicken ) must be opened and stuffed with a cutlet of  milk veal.  Of course this cutlet must be of proportionate size. Beat it well  to render it thinner and more tender, season with  salt,   pepper,  a pinch of  spices  and little pieces of  butter,  roll it and put inside the  pigeon  sewing the opening. The liver and giblets of the  pigeon  can be cooked apart in   brown stock   or in  butter,  after being chopped. With the resulting gravy the cutlet can be smeared. In this way the different flavor of the two qualities of meat is better amalgamated.  
   138 STUFFED BEEF CUTLET Braciuola di manzo ripiena) 
The ingredients for this dish are a slice of  beef  half an inch thick, weighing about one pound, half a pound or less of lean  milk veal,  two small slices of  ham  and two or three of  tongue,  one scant tablespoonful of  grated cheese,  a piece of  butter,  two  chicken livers,  one  egg,  a  crumb of bread  as large as a closed fist.  Make a hash with a small  onion,  a little  celery,   carrot  and  parsley,  put it on the fire with the  butter  and when it is browned, place in the saucepan the  veal  cut in small pieces and the  chicken livers,  season with little  salt  and  pepper  and complete the cooking with a little  broth.  Remove the  veal  and  chicken  when cooked, and chop them fine. In the  gravy  that remains make a pap rather hard with the  crumb of bread,  moistening  with  broth  if necessary. Now mix the chopped meat, the pap, the  eggs,  the  cheese,  the  ham  and  tongue  cut in little pieces. When the stuffing is composed thus, dip the cutlet in  water,  in order to stretch it better, beat it with the back of the knife and flatten with its blades. Put the stuffing inside and roll up and tie tightly with a string crosswise. Roast or bake with  oil  and  salt.   
   139 STUFFED CHICKEN (Pollo ripieno) 
For a middle-sized  fowl  use the following ingredients: two  sausages,  the  liver and giblets of the fowl,  eight or ten  chestnuts  well roasted, some pieces of  mushrooms,  a taste of  nutmeg,  one  egg.   If, instead of a fowl, it is a 
 
  turkey,  
double the dose.   Begin by giving the  sausages  and the  giblets  half a cooking, moistening them with a little  broth  if necessary. Season with a little  salt  and  pepper  on account of the  sausages  that already contain them. Remove them and in the gravy that remains put a  crumb of bread,  in order to obtain with a little  broth  two tablespoonfuls of thick pap. Skin the  sausages,  chop the  chicken giblets  and the  giblets  and grind everything together with the  chestnuts,  the  egg  and the pap; this is the stuffing with which the  fowl  is to be filled,  to be baked afterward. It is more tasty cold than hot, and it can also be cut better.  
   140 CHICKEN WITH SAUCE PIQUANTE (Pollo al diavolo) 
This ought to be cooked with  Cayenne pepper  and served with a highly seasoned sauce, but not everybody likes that and a simpler way to cook the  chicken  "al diavolo" is the following:  Take a young  chicken,  remove the neck and the legs, open it all in front and flatten it open as much as possible. Wash and wipe dry with a towel, then put it on the grill and when it begins to brown turn it. Grease it with  melted butter  or with  oil,  using a brush, and season with  salt  and  pepper.  The later may be  Cayenne pepper  for those who like it. Keep turning and greasing until it is all cooked.   To prepare the 
 
 sauce piquante 
that many like with chicken broiled in this way, put four tablespoonfuls of  butter  in a saucepan and when it begins to brown add two tablespoonfuls of  flour  and stir until it is well browned, but do not let it burn. Draw to a cooler place on the range and slowly add two cupfuls of   brown stock,   stirring constantly, add  salt  and a dash of  Cayenne  and let simmer for ten minutes. In another saucepan boil four tablespoonfuls of  vinegar  one tablespoonful  of chopped  onion,  one teaspoonful of  sugar  rapidly for five minutes; then add it to the sauce and at the same time add one tablespoonful of chopped  capers  two tablespoonfuls of chopped  pickle  and one teaspooful of  tarragon vinegar.  Stir well and let cook for two minutes to heat the  pickles.  If the sauce becomes too thick dilute it with a little  water.    This sauce is excellent for baked fish and all roasts and boiled meats, besides being a fitting condiment for the chicken "al diavolo".  
   141 CHICKEN WITH HAM (Pollo in porchetta) 
Fill a  chicken  with thin strips of  ham,  about half an inch wide. Add three cloves (or sections) of  garlic,  two little bunches of  fennel  and a few grains of  pepper.  Season outside with  salt  and  pepper  and cook in a saucepan with  butter,  or preferably bake in the oven.   Sausages  cut lengthwise and previously skinned can be substituted for the ham.   
   142 CHICKEN SAUTE' (Pollo saltato) 
Take a young  chicken,  remove the neck and trim the wings. Cut away the legs. Cut the  chicken    into six pieces. Remove some of the bones. Beat an  egg  with a teaspoonful of  water  and place in it the pieces of  chicken  after dipping them in  flour  and seasoning generously with  salt  and  pepper.  Leave the pieces in the  egg  until it is time for cooking. Then take the pieces one by one, sprinkle with  bread crumbs  and place a saucepan with a good piece of  butter  on the fire. When the  butter  begins to brown put in the pieces of  chicken  from the side of the skin, then turn them when browned to the other side. Let them on a good fire for about ten minutes. Serve with  lemon.  The  chicken  prepared in this way is good also when cold.  
   143 AFRICAN HEN (Gallina di Faraone) 
This fowl, that resembles the partridge, should not be too fresh, like all game.  The best way to cook the  African hen  is roasted at the spit. Put in the inside a ball of  butter  dipped in  salt  and wrap it in a piece of paper greased with  butter  and sprinkled with  salt.  This paper must be removed when the fowl is nearly cooked, and then the cooking is completed greasing with more  butter  and adding more  salt.   
 
   144 TAME DUCK ROASTED (Anatra domestica arrosto) 
 Salt  it inside and bandage all the breast with slices of  bacon,  large and thin. Grease with  oil  and  salt  moderately when the cooking is almost complete.  If you have a 
 
 wild duck 
grease with  butter,  as the meat is drier.   
   145 TURKEY (Tacchino) 
The  turkey  has been imported to Europe from America, but it is nevertheless a well known dish in Italian families, although not enjoying the popularity that it has on this side of the ocean. When roasted it is generally larded moderately with little pieces of  garlic  and  bay-leaf  or  rosemary  and seasoned with a hash of  corned beef  or  bacon,  a little  butter,   salt  and  pepper,    tomato sauce   or  tomato paste  diluted in  water.   The 
 
  breast,  
flattened until it is about half an inch thick and seasoned generously some hours before cooking with  oil,   salt  and  pepper,  is excellent broiled on the grill.   
 
   146 LOIN OF PORK ROASTED (Lombo di maiale arrosto) 
The  loin of pork,  cut in little pieces forms an excellent roast at the spit. The pieces of  pork  are to be divided by little pieces of  toast  and greased with  oil.    If the 
 
  pork  
is to be baked, choose that piece of the  loin  that has its ribs and that may weigh six or eight pounds. Lard it with  garlic,   rosemary  or  bay leaf  and a few  cloves,  but moderately, and season with  salt  and  pepper.    This roast is very popular in Italy, where they call it  arista.   
   147 LEG OF LAMB (Agnello all'Orientale) 
This is a way to cook lamb in use in the Orient and adopted by the Italians, especially in Southern Italy. The  leg of lamb  is to be larded with the  larding pin  with slices of  bacon  seasoned with  salt  and  pepper,  greased with  butter  or  milk,  or  milk  alone and salted when half cooked.   The Arabs, who are very fond of this dish, do not lard it, as pork is forbidden by their religion, but cook it with an abundance of  milk.    
 
   148 BROILED PIGEON (Piccione in gratella) 
Take a young, but fat  pigeon,  divide it in two parts lengthwise and flatten it well with the hands. Then put it to brown in  oil  for four or five minutes, just to harden the meat. Season when still hot with  salt  and  pepper,  then arrange it as follows.  Melt in the fire, without boiling it, a piece of  butter  and mix the liquid  butter  with one beaten  egg.  Dip the  pigeon  in the  butter  and  egg  and keep it until it absorbs them. Then sprinkle with  bread crumbs  ground fine. Cook on a grill on a low fire and serve with a  sauce  or a side dish.  
   149 STEAK IN THE SAUCEPAN (Bistecca nel tegame) 
If you have a  steak  that does not appear to be too tender, put it in a saucepan with a little piece of  butter  and some good  olive oil,  with a taste of  garlic  and bay-leaf or  rosemary.  Add, if necessary, a little  broth  or  water  or   tomato sauce   and serve with  potatoes  cooked in the gravy that can be made more abundant with more  broth,   butter  and  tomato sauce.   
  
   150 VEAL KIDNEY WITH ANCHOVY (Rognone alle acciughe) 
Take a  veal kidney,  remove the fat, cut it open and cover with  boiling water.  When the  water  has cooled, remove the  kidney,  wipe with a cloth, and pass through it clean sticks to make it stay open. Season with  melted butter,   salt  and  pepper  and leave it so prepared for an hour or two.  Then take another piece of  butter  and two or three  anchovies.  Clean the latter, chop and mix with the  butter  with the blade of a knife, making a ball. Cook the  kidney  on the grill, but not too much, in order to keep it tender, put it on a plate and grease when hot with the ball of  butter  and  anchovies.   
   151 VEAL KIDNEY SLICED (Rognone di vitello affettato) 
Cut in thin slices one or two  veal kidneys,  removing the granulous part that is to be found in the middle, and put the slices in a saucepan with a piece of  butter,  a bunch of  parsley  chopped very fine together with a clove of  garlic.  Add a cup of  hot broth;   salt  moderately and let it cook without boiling, until the sauce is reduced to about one third.  One tablespoonful of  vinegar  adds a pleasant taste to this dish.  
 
   152 BROILED MUTTON KIDNEY (Rognone di montone alla graticola) 
After washing the  kidneys,  remove the filmy skin that covers them and cut them in the middle without, however, detaching campletely the two parts. Season with  salt  and  pepper,  grease with  oil  and put them on a strong fire on the grill. After ten or twelve minutes they will be broiled. Serve hot with  parsley  and slices of  lemon.   
   153 MUTTON KIDNEY FRIED (Granelli di montone fritti) 
Wash, remove the skin that covers the  kidneys  and cut in very thin slices. Wipe with a cloth, dip first in  ground bread crumbs,  then in a beaten  egg  mixed with  melted butter,  then again in the  bread crumbs.  This must be done rapidly, at the time of frying, otherwise the  bread crumbs  absorb the moisture of the  kidney  and make them too hard.  Melt a piece of  butter  in a saucepan on a strong fire and when it begins to brown, dip the slices of  kidney.  Turn often, sprinkle with a little  parsley  chopped fine,  salt  and serve with  lemon.   
   154 BEEF TONGUE BOILED (Lingua di bue lessa) 
The  tongue  is boiled like the beef. When half cooked remove the skin, which is not nice to see  and has no nutrituous elements, although it is is served with a pur&#232;e of peas, or spinach or potatoes or beans, etc. But it can be served simply with sprigs of parsley.  
   155 BEEF TONGUE WITH OLIVES (Lingua di bue alle olive) 
Scald the  tongue  and peel off the skin. Then put it back to boil until fully cooked.  Melt a piece of  butter  and brown half a medium sized  onion  cut in slices. When the  onion  is browned remove it from the  butter  and dilute in the latter a teaspoonful of  flour.  When the  flour  begins to brown, thin it with one or two cups of  soup stock  hot and passed through a sieve. Mix and boil for ten minutes, seasoning with  salt  and  pepper.   When the sauce is prepared place the  tongue  in the saucepan containing it and let it cook again on a low fire for about an hour, turning it over frequently and keeping it moistened with the gravy. Cut some  olives  in a spiral to remove the stone and place it in the saucepan with the  tongue.  This becomes more tasty if left with the  olives  for one or two days.  
   156 STEWED BEEF TONGUE (Lingua di bue in stufato) 
Clean a fresh  tongue of beef;  put it in a plate,  salt  it generously and put it back in the  ice-box  or in the pantry, until the following day.  After twenty-four hours, scald it in  boiling water,  skin and lard with little pieces of  bacon  and put it in a kettle or a large saucepan in which the seasoning is already placed. This seasoning consists of 1/2 lb  bacon  cut in very thin slices, 1/4 lb.  butter,  one or two thin slices of  ham  and two middle sized  onions,  sliced. Sprinkle the  tongue  with  flour,  surround it with chopped meat and place the saucepan on the fire. When the  tongue  begins to brown, pour five or six cups of  soup stock  and one cup of  water.  Add the usual bunch of greens, two or three  cloves,   salt,  a pinch of  pepper  and one of  cinnamon.   Cover the saucepan tightly, boil for about four hours, rub the sauce through a sieve and serve everything hot.  
   157 VEAL SWEETBREADS (Animelle di vitello) 
Keep in  fresh water  for an hour. Then place them in a  skimmer  (ladle with holes) and dip in  boiling water  or  broth.  After a brief boiling remove and cool in cold water. Then remove the veins and gullet, taking care not to tear them. The  sweetbreads  are prepared in various ways and here we give some of the best known:    Sweetbreads with butter. --Boil in  broth  or  water,  clean and cut into slices. Brown a piece of  butter  with  salt  and  pepper.  Then place the sliced  sweetbreads  and brown them. Before serving squeeze on a little  lemon juice.  The  sweetbreads  prepared in this way are served preferably with rice or vegetables.     Sweetbreads with white sauce. --Boiled, cleaned and cut into slices, they are placed in  white sauce  or  balsamella  ( No. 54 ) adding a taste of  nutmeg,   pepper,   salt  and the  juice of half a lemon.      Sweetbreads in fricassee. --Boil, trim and cut into pieces. Then brown in  butter  with a  scallion  chopped fine. Once browned, remove from the gravy in which pour a tablespoonful of  flour,  moistened with  broth.  The sauce that results is bound with  egg-yolks  and  lemon juice.      Sweetbreads fried. --Boil and trim. Then cut in large slices, neither too thick nor too thin. Dip in beaten  egg  and in  bread crumbs  ground. Then fry in  butter.  Serve with  vegetables.    
   158 TENDERLOIN WITH SPICES (Filetto alla piemontese) 
Clean and trim the meat, removing all the little skins. Then sprinkle with  nutmeg,   cinnamon,   salt,  and  pepper,  and place in an earthen vase covered, together with a bunch of  aromatic herbs,   sage,   parsley,   rosemary,   onion,   carrot  and  celery,  all chopped fine. After a few hours melt and  brown a piece of  butter  with the  aromatic herbs,  then remove the latter and place the  tenderloin,  leaving it to simmer for half an hour, pricking it often with a large fork or a  larding pin,  to add its juice to the gravy. Serve hot.  
   159 STUFFED ONIONS (Cipolle ripiene) 
Boil six large  onions  for an hour. Then drain and skin. Remove the heart with the point of a knife. In the place of the heart place the stuffing made with 1/4 lb. of  ham  or  tongue,  chopped and mixed with  bread crumbs  ground, two tablespoonfuls of  milk,  two pinches of  salt  and one of  pepper.  When the  onions  are prepared and stuffed place them in a saucepan whose bottom has been greased with  butter,  sprinkle with  bread crumbs  ground and place in the oven, not too hot. At the time of serving add some  white sauce  or  balsamella  ( No 54 ). Stuffed  onions  are served as vegetables, or side-dish with roast-beef or boiled-beef.  
   160 STEWED ONIONS (Cipolle in stufato) 
Keep in  cold water,  for half an hour, two pounds of middle-sized  onions.  Afterward skin and place in a saucepan in which pour as much  broth  as is necessary to cover them. Let them  cook on a low fire for an hour, if they are  scallions,  or young  onions.  If they are not, two hours are not enough, sometimes.  When cooked and soft, drain and place in a large deep dish. Brown a piece of  butter  with a tablespoonful of  flour,  a cup of  broth,   salt  and  pepper.  Mix everything and when it begins to boil pour the sauce on the  onions,  which must be served hot.  
   161 VEAL LIVER (Fegato di vitella alla veneziana) 
Brown a large  onion  cut in thin slices in  oil  and place in the saucepan the  liver  cut in thin slices. Brown everything on a strong fire. When the  liver  takes a reddish color it is ready. If it is overdone, it becomes too hard.  Salt  just before removing from the saucepan.  
   162 FRIED LIVER (Fegato al tegame) 
Clean and trim the  liver,  then cut in slices half an inch thick. Dip in  flour  and place, without delay in a saucepan in which a small  onion  has been browned in  butter.   Salt  just before serving.  
   163 POLENTA WITH SAUSAGES (Polenta colle salsicce) 
The polenta is a very popular dish in Northern  Italy and can be prepared in various ways. Always, however, it is better to serve with the addition of  sausages,  or with  birds  or  tomato paste.   The  polenta  is practically corn-meal and it is made with the so-called  farina gialla  or  yellow flour.   The ingredients for a good polenta are one pound of  corn meal,  preferably granulous, one quart and a half of  water,  salted in proportion, one piece of  butter,  one cup and a half of  milk.   Pour the meal little by little into  boiling water,  continually stirring with a wooden spoon. When the meal is half cooked, put the  butter  and pour the  milk  little by little. While the  polenta  boils, place on the fire in a little saucepan a tablespoonful of  olive oil  or a small piece of  butter.  When the  oil  is hot or the  butter  is melted, put some  sausages  repeatedly pricked with a fork.  When the  sausages  are cooked, pour the polenta hot in a dish and place the  sausages  and the  gravy  in a cavity practised in the middle. Serve hot.  In cooking the  sausages  two or three  bay-leaves  may be added and removed before serving.  
   164 SAUSAGES WITH ONIONS (Salsicce alla cipollata) 
The  salsicce alla cipollata  are prepared with fresh and lean  pork meat  and  bacon  in equal quantity, chopped fine and seasoned with  salt,   pepper  and  spices.  Add a proportional quantity of  onions  chopped very fine, not too much, however. Fill with the hash the prepared entrails, tie every two inches to divide the sausages.  
  CELERY (Sedano)  Beside being used as a condiment with a great quantity of dishes, the celery may be prepared in various different ways to form appetizing vegetable dishes. We give here a certain number of those that appear most commonly on Italian tables: 
   165 CELERY WITH BUTTER (Sedano al burro) 
Two heads of  celery  for each person.  Clean and trim, removing the sprigs that are too hard, and the leaves, that are to be cut where they begin to be green. Finally trim the stem. Then wash repeatedly in running water, drain and put to boil in  salted boiling water.  Remove when cooked and drain again.  About three quarters of an hour before serving, melt a piece of  butter  in a saucepan and brown the  celery,  turning them often for about ten minutes. After that pour over hot stock ( soup stock  or  chicken broth ) cover the saucepan and parboil. A few moments before serving season with   brown stock,   if you have any at hand, otherwise with  salt  and  pepper  only.  
 
   166 CELERY AU JUS (Sedano al sugo) 
Select nine or ten heads, neither too hard nor too soft, and cut them about four inches from the root. Remove the green and hard branches and trim the root, cutting the latter to a point. Scald the  celery,  after washing well, in  salted boiling water.  Ten minutes will be sufficient. Dip in cold water, open well the leaves and wash again carefully. Drain and make bunches of two or three heads each that you will put in a saucepan with a pint of  broth  or  water  and half a cup of good  fat,   onion  and  carrot  chopped,  salt  and  pepper.  Cover and let it simmer for about two hour. Then remove the  celery,  drain and serve.  
   167 SAUCE FOR CELERY AU JUS (Salsa per sedani al sugo) 
The  celery,  prepared as above, are seasoned with the following  sauce:  Make a  roux  melting a piece of  butter  and browning an equal weight of  flour;  stir for about three minutes on the fire, after which thin the roux with a little brown stock or with bouillon cubes diluted in  water.  Continue stirring and reduce the sauce. Then rub through a sieve, pour over the  celery  and serve very hot.  
 
   168 FRIED CELERY (Sedani fritti) 
This is a convenient way to prepare left-over  celery  that is still too good to be thrown away.  Clean the left-over  celery  removing as best you can the sauce in which they were served, dip in frying paste ( flour  and  egg ) fry and serve with  lemon.   
   169 PUREE OF CELERY (Macco di sedani) 
Take some big roots of  celery,  prepare as usual and wash in running water. Boil in  salted water,  crush and rub through a sieve. Put in a saucepan this pur&#232;e, with a piece of  butter,   salt,   flour  and a little  cream  or  milk.  The  milk  may be substituted with good  soup stock  or   brown stock.   Just before serving add a little  powdered sugar.   
 
   170 STEW (Stufato) 
The Italian  stufato  is somewhat different from the stewed meat that is known under the name of "Irish stew". It corresponds to the French  daube  and is prepared in Italy in many different ways.  An excellent  stufato  can be made in the following way: Chop fine two bunches of  parsley,   a small  carrot,  half a medium sized  onion,  a little piece of   seallion   and two  bay-leaves.  Brown with a good piece of  butter  in a saucepan in which one and a half tablespoonful of  oil  have been previously poured.  The  meat  must have been prepared beforehand, that is to say washed, trimmed and larded. When half cooked, season moderately with  salt  and  pepper.  If necessary, moisten with  broth  or  water.  During the cooking the saucepan must be covered with its cover and with a sheet of paper greased with  fat  or  oil.  The stufato will be ready after about three hours' cooking on a low fire.  
   171 SOUTHERN STEW (Stufato Meridionale) 
Put the piece of  meat  in a saucepan of such a size that it remains completely filled, moisten with two cups of  water  and two of  white wine,  season with  salt  and  pepper  and cook for five hours on a low fire.  
   172 STEW MILANAISE (Stufato alla milanese) 
Beat and flatten a good piece of  meat  and lard with  bacon  or  ham  cut in small pieces. Season with  salt,   pepper  and a taste of  cinnamon.  Sprinkle  flour  over the meat.  Place in a saucepan a little  fat of beef  chopped  with a middle sized  onion  and brown with a piece of  butter.  When the  onion  is browned, remove it and place the meat over the melted  butter.  Brown with melted  butter.  Then fill the saucepan with half  water,  half  red wine,  but only when the meat is browned from all sides. Cover the saucepan the best you can, with cover and greased paper and let it simmer for five or six hours on a very low fire.  After removing the stew, let it cool, rub the gravy through a sieve, put again on the fire and serve hot.  
   173 FRENCH STEW (Stufato alla francese) 
Prepare on the bottom of the saucepan a layer of thin slices of  ham,  on which place several little cubes also of  bacon.  In the middle place a bunch of  parsley,  and around this some  cloves,  half an  onion  sliced, a few  carrots  in little cubes several young  onions,   bay-leaf,   salt,  and  pepper.   On this bed lay the  meat  that may be larded with  bacon  or  ham  and seasoned with  salt,   pepper  and a taste of  cinnamon.  Pour on the meat two cups of  soup stock  or  water  and one cup of  white wine.  Cover the saucepan hermetically and cook on a very low fire for five hours.  When the stufato is to be served cold, the  gravy is to be rubbed through a sieve before it gets cold.   Note. --In these and similar dishes we have indicated the use of  wine,  which is a common ingredient, in small quantities in Italian and French cooking. This, however, can always be dispensed with if its taste is not appreciated, or for any other reason.  
   174 TROUT ALPINE (Trota all'alpigiana) 
These are many ways to prepare this delicious fish, found in abundance in the many streams of clear water that run from the Alps and the Apennine mountains. Often the  trout  is cooked in  wine,  but, of course, this part many be changed.  For the  trota all'alpigiana,  so called because it is the favorite dish of Piedmont, the  trout  must be cleaned, scaled, washed, wiped then salted and left under the action of the  salt  for about an hour.  Pour in a  fish-kettle  one quart of  white wine  to which will be added three medium sized  onions  a few  cloves,  two sections of  garlic  and a little bunch made of  thyme,   bay-leaf,   basil  or  mint;  finally a piece of  butter  as large as an egg, dipped in  flour.  Then put the  trout  in the  fish-kettle  and place on a strong fire. When the liquid has boiled the  trout  is cooked. Remove the  onions  and the bunch of greens and serve the  trout  with its gravy and some  parsley.   
 
   175 TROUT LOMBARD (Trota fritta) 
Clean, scale, wash and wipe the  trout.   Salt  and leave for half an hour. Fill with  water  half a  fish-kettle;  add half a  lemon,  two  bay-leaves,  one  carrot  light or ten berries of  pepper,  one  onion  divided into four parts,  salt  and three  cloves.  When the  water  is lukewarm, dip in the  trout.  Cook on a moderate fire and serve the  trout  with  parsley,  slices of  lemon  and  young potatoes  boiled. A good  fish-sauce  ought to accompany it.  
   176 FRIED TROUT (Trota fritta) 
Small and young  trouts  are best for frying. Scale, clean, wash and wipe. Then dip in  flour  and fry like the other fish in  oil  or in  butter.  Serve with  browned parsley  and  lemon.   
   177 TROUT WITH ANCHOVIES (Trota alle acciughe) 
Scale, clean wash and wipe the  trouts.  Cut the sides and place to pickle with  salt,   pepper berries,   garlic,   parsley  and  onions  chopped fine; with  mushrooms  chopped fine with  thyme,   bay-leaf  and  mint,  all seasoned with good  olive oil.  Rub the pickled pieces at the sieve and place it and the  trout  in a baking-tin. Bake in the oven and serve with  anchovy sauce  ( No. 17 ).  
   178 EGGS WITH ONION SAUCE (Uova trippate) 
Prepare some  hard boiled eggs,  shell and cut into disks one third of an inch thick.  Melt in a saucepan a piece of  butter  in which brown half an  onion  cut into thin slices, to be removed from the  butter  when browned. Then add to the  butter  two teaspoonfuls of  flour,  mix but don't allow to brown, thin with a cup of  hot broth,  add  salt  and  pepper  and let simmer for ten minutes. Put the sliced  eggs  in the sauce to warm them, stir a little, but carefully to avoid breaking them, and do not boil again. Just before serving add to the sauce a teaspoonful of  cream  and stir carefully.  
   179 EGGS WITH HAM (Uova al prosciutto) 
Place in a frying pan as many pieces of  butter,  large like a nut, as there are  eggs  to be cooked. For each piece of  butter  put a little slice of  ham  and place the frying pan on the fire. As soon as the  butter  is melted break an  egg  on each slice of  ham.  Let cook for ten minutes on a moderate fire.  
 
   180 EGGS WITH TOMATO SAUCE (Uova al pomidoro) 
Prepare some  hard boiled eggs,  cut them through the middle lengthwise, place in good order upon a plate and pour some good  tomato sauce,  taking care not to cover the upper part of the  eggs,  which must emerge from the sauce.   Instead of the  tomato,  the  eggs  may be arranged with a   balsamella  sauce  ( No. 54 ).   
   181 SCRAMBLED EGGS (Uova strapazzate) 
Break the  eggs  in a plate, assuring first that they are all fresh.  Melt in a saucepan a piece of  butter  about as big as an egg. When it is melted pour the  egg  and scramble them with a fork on a low fire.  When the  eggs  are cooked season moderately with  salt  and  butter.  Just when you take them away from the fire and before serving add a tablespoonful of  milk  or liquid  cream.  Serve hot with a little  grated cheese.   The scrambled  eggs  can be served with points of asparagus, truffles, mushrooms, etc. which are prepared just as if they were to go in an omelet.  
 
   PART II PASTRY, SWEETS, FROZEN DELICACIES, SYRUPS 
   182 PUDDING OF HAZELNUTS (Budino di nocciuole) 
Shell half a pound of  hazelnuts  in  warm water  and dry them well at the sun or on the fire, then grind them very fine, together with  sugar,  of a weight somewhat less than the nuts. Put one quart of  milk  on the fire, and when it begins to boil, put two third lb.  lady fingers  or  macaroons  crumbed and let it boil for five minutes, adding a small piece of  butter.  Rub everything through a sieve and put back on the fire with the nuts to dissolve the  sugar.  Let it cool and add six  eggs,  first the yolks, then the white beaten, pour in a mold greased with butter and sprinkled with bread crumbs ground fine. The mold must not be all full. Bake in the oven and serve cold.  This dose will be sufficient for eight or ten persons.  
   183 CRISP BISCUITS (Biscotti croccanti) 
  One pound of  flour.   Half a pound  granulated sugar.   1/4 lb.  sweet almonds,  whole and shelled, mixed to a few  pine-seeds.    A piece of  butter,  one and a half ounce.  A pinch of  anise-seeds.   Five  eggs.   A pinch of  salt.     Leave back the  almonds  and  pine-seeds  to add them afterward, and mix everything with four  eggs,  so as to use the fifth if it is necessary to make a soft dough. Divide into four cakes half an inch thick and as large as a hand, place them in a receptacle greased with  butter  and sprinkled with  flour.  Glaze the cakes with  yolk of eggs.  Bake in the oven, but only as much as will still permit cutting the cakes into slices, which you will do the day after, as the crust will then be softened. Put the slices back in the oven, so that they will be toasted on both sides and you will have the crisp biscuits.  
   184 SOFT BISCUITS (Biscotti teneri) 
For these biscuits it would be necessary to have a tin box about four inches wide and a little less long than the oven used. In this way the biscuits will have a corner on both sides and, if cut a little more than half an inch, they will be of the right proportion. The ingredients needed are:   Flour,  about two ounces.   Potato meal,  a little less.   Sugar,  four ounces (1/4 lb.)    Sweet almonds  1 1/2 ounce.   Candied orange  or  angelica,  one ounce.   Fruit preserve,  one ounce.  Three  eggs.     Skin the  almonds,  cut them in half lengthwise and dry in the sun or at the fire. Pastry cooks usually leave them with the skin but it is much preferable to skin them. Cut in little cubes the  candied fruits  and the  preserve.   Stir for a long while, about half an hour the  sugar  in the  egg-yolks  and a little  flour  then add the  white of the eggs  well beaten and when every thing is well beaten add the  flour,  letting it fall from a sieve. Mix slowly and scatter on the mixing the  almonds  and the cubes of  candied and preserved fruit.  Grease and sprinkle the tin box with flour. Bake in the oven and cut the biscuits the day after. If desired these can also be roasted on both sides.  
   185 BISCUITS SULTAN (Biscotto alla sultana) 
   Granulated sugar,  six ounces.   Flour,  four ounces.   Potato meal,  two ounces.   Currants,  three ounces.   Candied fruits,  one ounce.  Five  eggs.   A taste of  lemon peel.   Two tablespoonfuls of  brandy.      Put first on the fire the  currants  and the  candied fruits  cut in very little cubes with as much  brandy  or  cognac  as is necessary to cover them: when it boils, light the brandy and let it burn out of the fire until the liquor is all consumed: then remove the  currants  and candy and let them dry in a folded napkin. Then stir for half an hour the  sugar  with the  egg-yolks  and the taste of  lemon peel.  Beat well the  white of the eggs  and pour them on the  sugar  and  yolks.  Add the  flour  and  potato meal  letting them fall from a sieve and stir slowly until everything is well mixed together. Add the  currants  and the pieces of  candied fruits  and pour the mixing in a smooth mold or in a high and round cake-dish. Grease the mold or the dish with butter and sprinkle with powdered sugar or flour. Put at once in the oven to avoid that the  currants  and the  candied fruits  fall in the oven.  
   186 MARGHERITA CAKE (Pasta Margherita) 
   Potato meal,  three ounces.   Sugar,  six ounces.  Four  eggs.    Lemon juice.     Beat well the egg-yolks with the  sugar,  add the  potato meal  and the  lemon juice  and stir everything for half an hour. Finally beat well  the whites, and mix the rest, stirring continually but slowly. Pour the mixture in a smooth and round mold, greased with butter and sprinkled with powdered sugar. Put at once in the oven.  Remove from the mold when cold and dust with  powdered sugar  and  vanilla.   
   187 MANTUA TART (Torta Mantovana) 
   Flour,  six ounces.   Sugar,  six ounces.   Butter,  five ounces.   Sweet almonds  and  pine-seeds,  two ounces.  One whole  egg.   Four  egg-yolks.   A taste of  lemon peel.     First work well with a ladle the  eggs  with the  sugar,  then pour the  flour  little by little, still stirring, and finally the  butter,  previously melted in a  double steamer  ( bain-marie ). Put the mixture in a  pie-dish  greased with  butter  and sprinkled with  flour  or  bread crumbs  ground. On top put the  almonds  and the  pine-seeds.  Cut the latter in half and cut the  almonds,  previously skinned in  warm water,  each in eight or ten pieces. This tart must not be thicker than one inch, so that it can dry well in the oven, which must not be too hot.  Sprinkle with  powdered sugar  and serve cold.  
 
   188 CURLY TART (Torta ricciolina) 
   Sweet almonds with a few bitter ones,  four ounces,   Granulated sugar,  six ounces,   Candied fruits  or  angelica,  2 1/2 ounces,   Butter,  two ounces,   Lemon peel.     Mix two  eggs  with  flour,  flatten the paste to a thin sheet on a  bread board  and cut into thin noodles. In a corner of the  bread board  make a heap of the  almonds  with the  sugar,  the  candied fruit  cut in pieces and the grated  lemon peel.  All this cut and crush so as to reduce the mixture in little pieces. Then take a  pie-dish  and without greasing it, spread a layer of noodles on the bottom, then pour part of the mixture, then another layer of noodles and continue until there remains no more material, trying to have the tart at least one inch thick. When it is so prepared cover with the  melted butter,  using a brush to apply it evenly.  
   189 ALMOND CAKE (Bocca di dama) 
   Granulated sugar,  nine ounces,  Very fine  Hungarian flour,  five ounces,    Sweet almonds with some bitter ones,  two ounces,  Six whole  eggs  and three  egg yolks,   Taste of  lemon peel.     After skinning the  almonds  in warm water and drying them well, grind or better pound them well together with a tablespoonful of  sugar  and mix well with the  flour.  Put the rest of the  sugar  in a deep dish with the  egg yolks  and the grated  lemon peel  (just a taste) and stir with a ladle for a quarter of an hour. In another dish beat the six whites of egg and when they have become quite thick mix them with other ingredients stirring slowly everything together.  To bake place the mixture in a baking-tin greased evenly with butter and sprinkled with powdered sugar and flour.  
   190 CORN MEAL CAKES (Pasta di farina gialla) 
   Corn meal,  seven and a half ounces,   Wheat flour,  five and a half ounces,   Granulated sugar,  five and a half ounces,   Butter,  three and a half ounces,   Lard,  two ounces,  A pinch of  anise seed,   One  egg.     Mix together the  corn meal,  the  flour  and the   anis  seed  and knead with the  butter,  the  lard  and  the  egg  that quantity that you can, forming a loaf that you will put aside. What remains is to be kneaded with  water  forming another loaf. Then mix the two loaves and knead a little, not much because the dough must remain soft. Flatten with the rolling pin until it becomes one quarter of an inch thick, sprinkle with  flour,  and cut in different sizes and shapes with thin stamps.  Grease a baking tin with lard, sprinkle, with flour, glaze with the  egg,  bake and dust with  powdered sugar.   
   191 BISCUIT (Biscotto) 
  Six  eggs,    Granulated sugar,  nine ounces,   Flour,  four ounces,   Potato meal,  two ounces,  Taste of  lemon peel.     Stir for at least half an hour the yolks of the eggs with the  sugar  and a tablespoonful only of the  flour  and meal, using a ladle. Beat the whites of the eggs until they are quite firm, mix slowly with the first mixture and when they are well incorporated pour over from a sieve the  flour  and the  potato meal,  previously dried in the sun or on the fire.  Bake in a tin where the mixture comes about one inch and a half thick, previously greasing the  tin with cold butter and sprinkle with powdered sugar mixed with flour.   In these cakes with beaten whites the following method can also be followed: mix and stir first the yolks with the  sugar,  then put the  flour  then, after a good kneading, beat the whites until they are firm, pour two tablespoonfuls to soften the mixture, then the rest little by little.   
   192 CAKE MADELEINE (Pasta Maddalena) 
   Sugar,  four and a half ounces,   Flour,  three ounces,   Butter,  one ounce,   Egg-yolks,  four,   Whites of eggs,  three,  A pinch of  bi-carbonate of soda,   A taste of  lemon peel.     First mix and stir the  yolks  with the  sugar  and when they have become whitish, add the  flour  and stir for fifteen minutes more. Mix with the  butter,  melting or softening it fine if it is hard and finally add the  whites  when they are well beaten. The  flour  must be previously dried in the sun or on the fire.  This cake may be given different shapes, but keep it always thin and in little volume. It can be put in little molds greased with butter and sprinkled with  flour,  or else in a baking tin, keeping it  not more than half an inch thick, and cutting it after baking in the shape of diamonds and dusting with  powdered sugar.   
   193 ALMOND CRISP-TART (Croccante) 
   Sweet almonds,  four and a half ounces.   Granulated sugar,  three and a half ounces.    Skin the  almonds,  divide the two parts and cut each part into small pieces. Put these  almonds  so cut at the fire and dry them until they take a yellowish color, but do not toast. Meanwhile put the  sugar  on the fire in a saucepan and, when it is perfectly melted, pour the  almonds  hot and already sligthly browned. Now lower the fire and be careful not to allow the compound to be overdone. The precise point is known when the mixture acquires a cinnamon color. Then pour little by little in a cold mold, previously greased with butter or oil. Press with a lemon against the walls of the mold, making the mixture as thin as possible. Remove from the mold when perfectly cooled and, if it is difficult to do so, dip the mold in boiling water.   The  almonds  can also be dried in the sun and chopped fine, adding a small piece of  butter  when they are in the  sugar.    
 
   194 WAFER BISCUITS (Cialdoni)   Put in a kettle:   Flour,  three ounces.   Brown sugar,  one ounce.   Lard virgin,  half an ounce.   Cold water,  seven tablespoonfuls.    First dilute the  flour  and the  sugar  in the  water,  then add the  lard.   Put on the fire the iron for waffles or better an appropriated iron for flattened wafers. When it is quite hot open it and place each time half a tablespoonful of the paste. Close the iron and press well. Pass over the fire on both sides, trim all around with a knife and open the iron when you see that the wafer is browned. Then detach it from one side of the iron and hot as it is roll it on the iron itself or on a napkin using a little stick. This operation must be made with great rapidity because if the wafer gets cold, it cannot be rolled.  Should the wafers remain attached to the iron, grease it from time to time, and if they are not firm enough, add a little  flour.   These wafer-biscuits are generally served with whipped cream.  
 
   195 QUINCE CAKE (Cotognata) 
The ingredients are about six pounds of  quinces  and four pounds of  granulated sugar.   Put on the fire the  apples  covered with  water,  and when they begin to crack remove them, skin and scrape to put together all the pulp. Rub the latter through a sieve. Put back the pulp on the fire with the  sugar  and stir continually in order that it may not attack to the bottom of the kettle. It will be enough to boil for seven or eight minutes and remove when it begins to form pieces when lifted with the ladle.  Now in order to prepare the quince-cake spread it on a board to the thickness of about a silver dollar and dry it in the sun covered with  cheese cloth  to keep away the flies. When it is dry cut it in the form of chocolate tablets and remove each piece from the board passing the blade of a knife underneath.  If it is wished to make it crisp, melt about three and a half pounds of  granulated sugar  with two tablespoonfuls of  water  and when the  sugar  has boiled enough to "make the thread" smear every one of the little quince cakes with it. If the  sugar  becomes too hard during the operation put it back on the fire with a little  water  and make it boil again. When the  sugar  is dry on one side and on the edge, smear the other side.  
 
   196 PORTUGUESE CAKE (Focaccia alla Portoghese) 
   Sweet almonds,  five ounces.   Granulated sugar,  five ounces.   Potato meal,  one and a half ounce.  Three  eggs.   One big  orange  or two small.    First mix the yolks of the eggs with the  sugar,  then add the  flour,  then the  almonds  skinned and chopped fine, then the  orange juice  (through a  colander ) then a taste of  orange peel.  Finally add to the mixture the  whites of the eggs  well beaten. Put in a  paper mold  greased evenly with  butter,  with a thickness of about an inch and bake in a very moderately hot oven. After baked, cover with a white glaze or frost, made with  powdered sugar,   lemon juice  and the  white of eggs.   
   197 MACAROONS (Amaretti) I 
   Granulated sugar,  nine ounces.   Sweet almonds,  three and a half ounces.   Bitter almonds,  half of the above quantity.   Whites of egg,  two.    Skin and dry the  almonds,  then chop them very fine. Mix the  sugar  and the  whites of egg  and stir for about half an hour, then add the  almonds   to form a rather hard paste. Of this make little balls, as large as a small walnut. If the paste is too soft add a little  butter,  if too hard add a little  white of egg,  this time beaten. Were it desired to give the macaroons a brownish color, mix with the paste a little  burnt sugar.   As you form the little ball, that you will flatten to the thickness of one third of an inch, put them over wafers or on pieces of paper or in a baking tin greased with butter and sprinkled with half flour and half powdered sugar. Dispose them at a certain distance from one another as they will enlarge and swell, remaining empty inside.  Bake in an oven moderately hot.  
  II     Powdered sugar,  ten and a half ounces.   Sweet almonds,  three ounces.   Bitter almonds,  one ounce.  Two  whites of egg.     Skin the  almonds  and dry them in the sun or on the fire, then chop and grind very fine with one  white of egg  poured in various times. When this is done, put half of the  sugar,  stirring and kneading with your hand. Then pour everything in a large bowl and, always mixing, add half of the other  white of egg,  then the other half of the  sugar  and finally the other half of the  white.   In this way an homogenous mixture will be obtained of the right firmness. Shake into a kind  of a stick and cut it in rounds all equal, one third of an inch thick. Take them up one by one with moistened fingers and make little balls as large as a walnut. Flatten them to the thickness of a third of an inch and for the rest proceed as said above, but dust with  powdered sugar  before putting in a hot oven.  With this dose about thirty 
 
  macarons  
can be obtained.  
   198 FARINA CAKES (Pasticcini di semolino) 
   Farina,  six and a half ounces.   Sugar,  three and a half ounces.   Pine-seeds,  two ounces.   Butter,  a small piece.   Milk,  one quart.  Four  eggs.   A pinch of  salt.   Taste of  lemon peel.     Cook the  farina  in the  milk  and when it begins to thicken pour the  pine-seeds,  previously chopped fine and pounded with the  sugar,  then the  butter  and the rest, less the  eggs  which must be put in last when the mixture has completely cooled. Then place the whole well mixed in little molds, greased evenly with butter and sprinkled with bread crumbs ground fine, and bake.  
 
   199 RICE TART (Torta di riso) 
   Milk,  one quart.   Rice,  seven ounces.   Sugar,  five and a half ounces.   Sweet almonds with four bitter ones,  three and a half ounces.   Candied cedar  ( angelica ), one ounce.  Three whole  eggs.   Five  egg-yolks.   Taste of  lemon peel.   A pinch of  salt.     Skin the  almonds  and grind or pound them with two tablespoonfuls of the  sugar.   Cut the candied cedar in very small cubes. Cook the  rice  in the  milk  until it is quite firm, put in all the ingredients except the  eggs,  which are added when the mixture is cold. Put the entire mixture in a baking tin greased with butter and sprinkled with bread crumbs ground fine, harden in the oven and after 24 hours cut the tart into diamonds. When serving dust with  powdered sugar.   
   200 FARINA TART (Torta di semolino) 
   Milk,  one quart.   Farina  finely ground, four and a half ounces.   Sugar,  four and a half ounces.    Sweet almonds with three bitter,  three and a half ounces.   Butter,  a small piece.  Four  eggs.   Taste of  lemon peel.   A pinch of  salt.     Skin the  almonds  in  warm water  and ground or pound very fine with all the  sugar,  to be mixed one tablespoonful at a time.  Cook the  farina  in the  milk  and before removing from the fire add the  butter  and the  almonds,  which will dissolve easily, being mixed with the  sugar.  Then put the pinch of  salt  and wait until it becomes lukewarm to add the  eggs  that are to be beaten whole previously. Pour the mixture in a baking tin greased evenly with butter, sprinkled with bread crumbs and of such a size that the tart has the thickness of an inch or less. Put it in the oven, remove from the mold when cold and serve whole or cut into sections.  
   201 PUDDING OF RICE MEAL (Budino di farina di riso) 
   Milk,  one quart.   Rice meal,  seven ounces.   Sugar,  four and a half ounces.  Six  eggs.   A pinch of  salt.   Taste of  vanilla.      First dissolve the  rice meal  in half a pint of the  milk  when cold, and pour it in the rest of the  milk  when it is boiling. This is done to prevent the formation of lumps. When the meal is cooked add the  sugar,  the  butter  and the  salt.  Remove from the fire and when it is lukewarm mix the  eggs  (beaten) and the taste of  vanilla.  Then bake the pudding like all the others and serve warm.  
   202 BREAD PUDDING (Budino di pane) 
  Soft  bread crumb,  five ounces.   Butter,  three and a half ounces.  Four  eggs.   Taste of  lemon peel.   A pinch of  salt.     Cut the  bread crumb  into pieces and soak in  cold milk.  Then rub though a sieve. Melt the  butter  in a  double boiler  (in a vessel immersed in boiling water) and mix with the  eggs  until  butter  and  eggs  are incorporated to each other. Add the  bread crumb  and the  sugar  and mix well. Pour the mixture in a mold greased with  butter  and sprinkled with  bread crumb  ground fine and bake like other puddings.  
   203 POTATO PUDDING (Budino di patate) 
   Potatoes,  big and mealy, one and a half lb.    Sugar,  five and a half ounces.   Butter,  one and a half ounces.   Flour,  a tablespoonful.   Milk,  half a pint.  Six  eggs.   A pinch of  salt.    Paste of cinnamon or lemon peel.     Boil or steam the  potatoes,  skin and rub through a sieve. Place them back again on the fire with the  butter,  the  flour  and the  milk,  all poured little by little, stirring well with the ladle, then add the  sugar,  the  salt  and the  cinnamon  or  lemon peel  (just a taste) and mix everything together well. Remove from the fire and, when the mixture is lukewarm or cold add the  eggs,  first the yolks, then the whites beaten.  Bake like all other puddings and serve hot.  
   204 LEMON PUDDING (Budino di limone) 
  One big  lemon.    Sugar,  six ounces.   Sweet almonds with 3 bitter ones,  six ounces.  Six  eggs.     Cook the  lemon  in  water,  for which two hours will be enough. Remove dry and rub through a sieve. Before rubbing, however, taste it, because if it has a bitter taste it must be kept in cold water until it has lost that unpleasant taste. Add the  sugar,  the  almonds  skinned and ground very fine and the six yolks of the eggs. Beat the whites of the eggs and add them to the mixture that will then be put in a mold and baked like all other puddings.  
   205 PUDDING OF ROASTED ALMONDS (Budino di mandorle tostate) 
   Milk,  one quart.   Sugar,  three and a half ounces.   Sweet almonds,  two ounces.   Lady-finger biscuits,  two ounces.  Three  eggs.     First prepare the  almonds,  that is to say skin them in warm water and toast them on the fire over a plate of iron or a stone, then grind very fine. Boil the  sugar  and the lady-fingers, broken in little pieces in the  milk,  mixing well. After half an hour of boiling, keeping always stirred, rub the mixture through a sieve. Then add the toasted and ground almonds. When it is cold add the beaten  eggs,  pour it in a smooth mold, whose bottom will be covered with a film of liquified sugar and cook in a  double boiler,  that is to say put the mold well closed in a kettle full of boiling water.  When cooked let it cool and place in  ice-box  before serving.  
 
   206 CRISP CAKE IN DOUBLE BOILER (Croccante a bagno maria) 
   Sugar,  five and a half ounces.   Sweet almonds,  three ounces.   Egg-yolks,  five.   Milk,  one pint.    Skin the  almonds  and chop them in little pieces about as big as a grain of wheat. Put on the fire two thirds of the  sugar  and when it is all melted pour the  almonds  and stir continually with the ladle until they have taken the color of cinnamon. Then put them in a tin greased with butter and when they are cold, pound them very fine with the remaining third of  sugar.   Add the  yolks  and then the  milk,  mix well and pour the mixture in a mold with a hole in the middle and greased evenly with butter. Place the mold in a  double boiler  so that it will be cooked by steam.  
   206 STUFFED PEACHES (Pesche ripiene) 
  Six big  peaches  not very ripe.  Four or five  lady-finger biscuits.    Granulated sugar,  three ounces.  Two ounces  sweet almonds  with three  peach kernels.    Candied fruit  ( angelica ) half an ounce.     Cut the  peaches  in two parts, remove the stones and enlarge somewhat the cavity where they were with the point of a knife. Mix the peach pulp that you extract with the  almonds,  already skinned, and grind the pulp and  almonds  very fine together with two ounces of the  sugar.  To this mixture add the lady-fingers crumbed and the  candied fruits.  Cut in very small cubes. This will be the stuffing with which you will fill the cavities of the twelve halves of peach. These you will place in a row in a baking tin, with the stuffing above. Add the remaining ounce of  sugar  and bake in oven with a moderate fire.  
   207 MILK GNOCCHI (Gnocchi di latte) 
  One quart of  milk.    Sugar,  nine ounces.   Starch  in powder, four ounces.  Eight  yolks of eggs.   A taste of  vanilla.     Mix everything together as you would do for a cream and put on the fire in a saucepan, continually stirring with a ladle. When the mixture has become hard keep it a few moments more on the fire and then pour it in a plate to make it about half an inch thick and cut it into diamonds when it is cold. Put these diamonds one over the other with symmetry in a baking tin or in a  fireproof  glass plate,  with some little pieces of  butter  in between and brown them a little in the oven. Serve hot.  
   208 SABAYON (Zabaione) 
   Yolks of three eggs.    Granulated sugar,  two ounces.   Marsala  or  sherry wine,  five tablespoonfuls.  A dash of  cinnamon.     First stir with the ladle the  yolks  and the  sugar  until they become almost white, then add the  wine.  When ready to serve, place the saucepan in another one containing hot water and beat until the  sugar  is melted and the  egg  begins to thicken.  
  SYRUPS (Sciroppi)  The syrups of acidulated fruits, diluted with ice water are refreshing and pleasant beverages, greatly appreciated during the summer months. It is well, however, not to drink them until the digestion is completed, because they may disturb it, on account of the sugar that they contain. 
   209 RED CURRANT OR GOOSEBERRY SYRUP (Sciroppo di ribes) 
Remove the stems from the bunches of  gooseberry  and place them in an earthen vase, to be   kept in a cool place. When it has begun to ferment (which may happen after three or four days) sink the surface film and stir with a ladle twice a day, continuing this operation until it has stopped raising. Then put in a  cheese cloth,  letting the juice come out through pressing with the hands or in a machine. Pass the juice through a filter, two or three times if necessary, until you obtain a limpid liquid. Then put it on the fire and when it begins to boil pour in it  granulated sugar  and  citric acid  in the following proportions:  Liquid, six pounds.   Sugar,  eight pounds.   Citric acid,  one ounce.    That is to say for each  three  parts of the liquid, add  four  parts of  sugar,  and  one  ounce of  citric acid  for  eight  pounds of  sugar  mixed with  six  pounds of liquid.  Stir continually with the ladle so that the  sugar  does not stick to the bottom, taste it to add some more  citric acid  if you judge it necessary, then let it cool and place in bottles to besealed.  When a beverage is to be prepared pour in a tumbler less than half an inch of syrup for a tumblerful of ice water.  
 
   210 RASPBERRY SYRUP (Sciroppo di lampone) 
This is prepared like the other explained above but, since this fruit contains less gluten than the gooseberry the period of fermentation will be briefer. The large quantity of  sugar  used in these syrups is necessary for their conservation and the  citric acid  is used to correct the excessive sweetness.  
   211 LEMON SYRUP (Sciroppo di limone) 
  Three big  lemons.   One and a half pound of  sugar.   A tumbler of  water.     Skin the  lemons,  removing the internal pulp without squeezing it and taking off all seeds.  Put the  water  on the fire with the skin of one of the  lemons  cut in a thin ribbon like strip with a small knife. When the  water  is near boiling put in the  sugar  then remove the lemon skin and immerse the pulp of the three  lemons.  Boil until the syrup is condensed and cooked right, which is known by the pearls that it makes boiling and the color of white wine that is acquires. Preserve in a bottle, and when needed, dilute in a tumbler of ice water. A small quantity will make a delightful beverage.  
 
   212 HARD BLACK-BERRY SYRUP (Sciroppo di amarena) 
Use hard but ripe  black berries.  They must be of the sour kind but, as said, they must not be unripe. Remove the stems and put the berries into a vase with a good piece of whole  cinnamon.  The fermentation will happen after 48 hours and as soon as the berries begin to rise, stir them from time to time. Then press them to extract the juice, with a  pressing machine  if you have one, or with your hands, squeezing them a few at a time in  cheese cloth. --When the liquid has rested for a while, filter it until it becomes quite clear. When it has been depurated, put it on the fire in the following proportion and with the piece of  cinnamon  that was already immersed in the  cherries:  Twelve pounds of liquid to sixteen pounds of  sugar  and two ounces of  citric acid,  or three parts of liquid to four of  sugar  and the  citric acid  as in the above proportion.  Before putting in the  sugar  and the  citric acid  wait until the liquid is quite hot, just before boiling. Then stir continually. The boiling must be brief, four or five minutes are sufficient to incorporate the  sugar  in the liquid.  When removing the syrup from the fire, put it in an earthen vase and bottle when quite cold. Cork the bottles well and keep in a cool place.  
 
   213 ORGEAT (Orzata) 
   Sweet almonds with 10 or 12 bitter ones,  seven ounces.   Water,  one and half pounds.   Granulated sugar,  two pounds.    Skin the  almonds  and grind them very fine, or better pound them in a  mortar,  moistening from time to time with  orange flower water,  of which you will use about two tablespoonfuls.  When the  almonds  have been reduced to a paste, dissolve the latter in one third of the  water  and filter the juice through a  cheese cloth,  squeezing hard. Put the paste, back in the  grinder  or in the  mortar,  grind or pound again, then filter again with another third of the  water.  Repeat the same operation for a third time, then put on the fire the liquid so obtained and just before boiling put the  sugar,  mix, stir and boil for about twenty minutes. Let it cool, then bottle and keep in a cool place. The orgeat does not ferment and the thick liquid may be diluted in water, half an inch for a whole tumbler of iced water.  
 
   PRESERVES 
   214 APRICOT MARMALADE (Conserva di albicocche) 
Use good and ripe  apricots.  It is a mistake to believe that jam or marmalade can be obtained with any kind of fruit. Take off the stones, put them on the fire without  water  and while they boil, stir with a ladle to reduce them to pulp. When they have boiled for about half an hour, rub them through a sieve to separate the pulp of the fruit from the skins that are to be thrown away, then put them back on the fire with  granulated sugar  in the proportion of eight tenths, that is to say eight pounds of  sugar  for ten pounds of apricot pulp. Stir often with the ladle until the mixture acquires the firmness of marmalade, which will be known by putting from time to time a teaspoonful in a plate and seeing that it flows slowly.  When ready, remove from the fire, let it cool, and then put in vases well covered and with a film of paraffine or tissue paper dipped in alcohol, so that the air may not pass in.  
   215 PRESERVE OF QUINCE (Conserva di cotogne soda) 
The ingredients are  quinces,  peeled and with the core removed, and  granulated sugar,  in the  proportion of eight tenths of  quinces  to five tenths of  sugar,  or a little more than one and a half  quinces  for one part of  sugar.   Dissolve the  sugar  on the fire with half a glass of  water,  boil a little, then remove from the fire and put aside.  Cut the  quinces --peeled and coreless--in very thin slices and put them on the fire with a glass of  water,  supposing the quantity to be about two pounds. Keep covered, but stir once in a while with the ladle, trying to break the slices and reduce them to a paste. When the  quinces  are made tender through cooking, pour in the thick syrup of  sugar  already prepared, mix and stir and let the mixture boil with the cover removed until the preserve is ready, which will be known when it begins to fall like shreds when taken up with the ladle.  Let it cool and put in well covered jars.  
 
  ICES (Gelati)  Although it is in America that there is a greater consumption of ice cream, it is in Italy that it was first made, and in various European capitals it is the Italian  gelatiere  who prepares the frozen delicacy. A few Italian recipes of  gelati  will then be acceptable, we believe, as a conclusion to this little work.  
   216 BISCUIT (Pezzo in gelo) 
Make a cream with:   Water,  five ounces.   Sugar,  two ounces.  The  yolks of four eggs.   A taste of  vanilla.     Put it on the fire stirring continually and when it begins to stick to the ladle remove from the fire and whip to a stiff froth. Then mix about five ounces of ordinary  whipped cream,  put in a mold and pack in  salt  and  ice.   Keep in ice for about three hours.  This dose will be sufficient for seven or eight persons.  
   217 LEMON ICE (Gelato di limone) 
   Granulated sugar,  3/4 lb.   Water,  a pint.   Lemons,  three (good sized).    Boil the  sugar  in the  water,  with some little pieces of  lemon peel,  for about ten minutes, in an uncovered kettle. When this  syrup  is cold, squeeze the  lemons  one at the time, tasting the mixture to regulate the degree of acidity. Then strain and put in the freezer packed with  salt  and  ice.   
 
   218 STRAWBERRY ICE (Gelato di fragola) 
  Ripe  strawberries,  3/4 lb.   Granulated sugar,  3/4 lb.   Water,  one pint.  A big  lemon.   An  orange.     Boil the  sugar  in the  water  for ten minutes in an uncovered kettle. Rub through a sieve the  strawberries  and the juice of the  lemon  and the  orange:  add the syrup after straining, mix everything and pour the mixture in the freezer.  
   219 ORANGE ICE (Gelato di aranci) 
  Four big  oranges.   One  lemon.   One pint of  water.    Sugar,  3/4 lb.    Squeeze the  oranges  and the  lemon  and strain the juice.  Boil the  sugar  in the  water  for ten minutes, put in the juice when cold, strain again and put in the freezer.  
 
   220 PISTACHE ICE CREAM (Gelato di pistacchi) 
Skin the  pistaches  in warm water and grind them very fine with a tablespoonful of the  sugar,  then put in a saucepan with the  yolks  and the  sugar,  mixing everything together. Add the  milk  and put the mixture on the fire stirring with the ladle and when it is condensed like cream, let it cool and put in the freezer.  
   221 TUTTI FRUTTI 
To make this ice a special ice cream mold is necessary, or a tin receptacle that can be closed hermetically.  Take several varieties of fruits of the season, ripe and of good quality, that is to say,  strawberries,   cherries,   plums,   apricots,  a big  peach,  a good sized  pear,  a piece of good  cantaloupe.  Peel, skin and remove stones and cores of all these fruits. Then cut them into very thin slices, throwing away the cores and stones.  When the fruit is prepared in this manner, weigh it, and sprinkle over one fifth of its weight of  powdered sugar,  squeezing also one  lemon.  Mix everything and let the mixture rest for half an hour.  Put a sheet of paper in the bottom of the mold that is to be filled with the fruit pressed together, close, and pack in  salt  and  ice,  keeping it for two hours or a little less.  This is not the  tutti frutti  ice cream as is known in America, but a  mac&#232;doine  of fruits, that comes very pleasant to the taste in the summer months.  
 
 
 
 
   INDEX  NUMBERS REFER TO RECIPES   Page  African hen,  143  . . . . . . . . .  103   Almond, cake,  189  . . . . . . . .  129   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160; crisp cake,  193  . . . .  133   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160; (roasted) pudding,  205  . .  143   Anchovy sauce,  14  . . . . . . . .  16   Apricot marmelade,  214  . . . . . .  151    Artichockes,  with butter,  31  . . .  27   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;fried,  28  . . . . . .  25   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;in mold,  96  . . . . .  73   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;steamed,  29  . . . . .  26  
 &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;stewed,  30  . . . . .  27   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;stuffed,  105  . . . . .  78   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;stuffed with meat,  106   79   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;with sauce,  104  . . .  78   Asparagus,  114  . . . . . . . . .  85   Balsamella, sauce,  59  . . . . . .  46   Bean soup,  7  . . . . . . . . . . .  9   Birds,  132  . . . . . . . . . . .  95   Biscuit,  191  . . . . . . . . . . .  131   Biscuit, (ice),  216  . . . . . . .  153   Biscuit,  cripp ,  183  . . . . . . .  124   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;"&#160; &#160; &#160; soft,  184  . . . . . . .  125   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;"&#160; &#160; &#160; sultan,  185  . . . . . .  126   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;"&#160; &#160; &#160; wafer,  194  . . . . . .  134  
 Blackberry syrup,  212  . . . . . .  149   Bread soup,  3  . . . . . . . . . .  7   Breast of Veal stuffed,  80  . . . .  62   Brittle (see crisp cake) . . . .   Broth,  1  . . . . . . . . . . . . .  5   Brown stock,  13  . . . . . . . . .  15   Cabbage, stuffed,  112  . . . . . .  83   Cake, almond,  189  . . . . . . . .  129   &#160; &#160; &#160;" &#160; &#160; corn meal,  190  . . . . . . .  130   &#160; &#160; &#160;" &#160; &#160; crisp,  206  . . . . . . . . .  144   &#160; &#160; &#160;" &#160; &#160; Madeleine,  192  . . . . . . .  132   &#160; &#160; &#160;" &#160; &#160; Margherita,  186  . . . . . .  127  
 &#160; &#160; &#160;" &#160; &#160; portugaise,  196  . . . . . .  136   &#160; &#160; &#160;" &#160; &#160; quince,  195  . . . . . . . .  135   Cakes, farina,  198  . . . . . . . .  138   Caper Sauce,  57  . . . . . . . . .  45   Cappelletti, soup,  2  . . . . . . .  6   Cauliflower, in mold,  95  . . . . .  72   Cauliflower, with balsamella,  111  . . . 83   Celery, au jus,  166  . . . . . . . . . . 116   &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160;dressing,  103  . . . . . . . . . 77   &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160;fried,  168  . . . . . . . . . . 117   &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160;pur&#232;e,  169  . . . . . . . 117  
 &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160;sauce for,  167  . . . . . . . . 116   &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160;with butter,  165  . . . . . . . 115   Chicken alla cacciatora,  35  . . . . . . 30   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160;boned and stuffed,  40  . . . . . 33   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160;breasts saut&#232;,  45  . . . 37   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160;fried,  34  . . . . . . . . . . . 29   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160;saut&#232;,  142  . . . . . . . 102   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160;stuffed,  139  . . . . . . . . . 100   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160;stuffing,  64  . . . . . . . . . 51   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160;with ham,  141  . . . . . . . . . 102  
 &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160;with egg sauce,  44  . . . . . . 37   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160;with sausages,  43  . . . . . . . 36   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160;with sherry,  42  . . . . . . . . 36   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160;with tomatoes,  41  . . . . . . . 35   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160;with sauce piquante,  40  . . . . 101   Cod fish, boiled,  122, 123  . . . . . . 90-91   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; "&#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; croquettes,  125  . . . . . . . 91   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; "&#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; fried,  124  . . . . . . . . . 91   Corn meal, cake,  190  . . . . . . . . . 130  
 &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; pie,  37  . . . . . . . . . . 31   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; with sausages,  36  . . . . . 30   Crisp cake in double boiler,  206  . . . 144   Croquettes, fried,  67  . . . . . . . . . 53   Curly tart,  188  . . . . . . . . . . . . 129   Currant, syrup,  209  . . . . . . . . . . 146   Cutlets, chopped meat,  74  . . . . . . . 58   &#160; &#160; &#160; "&#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; veal,  75  . . . . . . . . . . . 58  
 &#160; &#160; &#160; "&#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; stewed,  73  . . . . . . . . . . 57   &#160; &#160; &#160; "&#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; stuffed, 76,  138  . . . . .  59-99   Dog fish, fried,  126  . . . . . . . . . 92   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;stewed,  127  . . . . . . . . . 92   Duck, tame,  144  . . . . . . . . . . . . 104   &#160; &#160; &#160;" &#160; &#160; wild,  46  . . . . . . . . . . . . 38   Eels, stewed,  188  . . . . . . . . . . . 88   &#160; &#160; "&#160; &#160; with peas,  119  . . . . . . . . . 88    Eggs, scrambled,  181 . . . . . .  123   &#160; &#160; &#160;"&#160; &#160; with ham,  179  . . . . . .  122   &#160; &#160; &#160;"&#160; &#160; with onion sauce,  178   122  
 &#160; &#160; &#160;"&#160; &#160; with tomato sauce,  180   123   Egg-plants, fried,  100  . . . .  75   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;" &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; in the oven,  102   76   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;" &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; stewed,  101  . . .  76   Farina, cakes,  198  . . . . . . .  138   &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160;tarts,  200  . . . . . . .  139   Fish, with bread crumbs,  115   86   &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; cutlets, stewed,  116   86   Fry, Roman,  68, 69  . . . . .  54-55   Gnocchi,  4  . . . . . . . . . . .  7   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160; milk,  207  . . . . . . .  145  
 Hare, roast,  135  . . . . . . . .  97   &#160; &#160; "&#160; &#160; &#160; stewed,  51  . . . . . . . .  42   Ices, biscuits,  216  . . . . . .  153   &#160; &#160;"&#160; &#160; lemon,  217  . . . . . . . .  153   &#160; &#160;"&#160; &#160; orange,  219  . . . . . . .  154   &#160; &#160;"&#160; &#160; pistache,  220  . . . . . .  155  
 &#160; &#160;"&#160; &#160; strawberry,  218  . . . . .  154   &#160; &#160;"&#160; &#160; tutti frutti,  221  . . . .  155   Kidney, broiled,  152  . . . . . .  108   &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;fried,  153  . . . . . . .  108   &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;saut&#232;,  71  . . . .  56   &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;sliced,  151  . . . . . .  107   &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;with anchovy,  150  . . .  107  
 &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;omelet,  33  . . . . . . .  61   Lamb, leg of,  147  . . . . . . .  105   &#160; &#160; &#160;"&#160; &#160; &#160; omelet,  33  . . . . . . . .  29   &#160; &#160; &#160;"&#160; &#160; &#160; shoulder,  79  . . . . . . .  61   &#160; &#160; &#160;"&#160; &#160; &#160; roast,  133  . . . . . . . .  96   &#160; &#160; &#160;"&#160; &#160; &#160; with peas,  78  . . . . . .  61   Lemon, ice,  217  . . . . . . . .  153  
 &#160; &#160; &#160; "&#160;&#160; &#160; &#160; pudding,  204  . . . . . .  142   &#160; &#160; &#160; "&#160;&#160; &#160; &#160; syrup,  211  . . . . . . .  148   Lentils, soup,  9  . . . . . . . .  10   Liver, loaf,  89  . . . . . . . .  68   Macaroni, Napolitaine,  20  . . .  20   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; "&#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;fried with oil,  21  . .  21   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; "&#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;au gratin,  19  . . . . .  19   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; "&#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;a la Corinna,  18  . . .  18   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; "&#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;with anchovy sauce,  17  . . .  18  
 &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; "&#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;with butter and cheese,  15  . . . . .  17   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; "&#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;with tomato sauce or brown stock,  16  . . .  18   Macaroons,  197  . . . . . . . . .  136   Madeleine cake,  192  . . . . . .  132    Mantona tart,  187  . . . . . . .  128   Margherita cake,  186  . . . . . .  127   Marmelade, apricot,  214  . . . .  151   Meat, Genovese,  86  . . . . . . .  65   &#160; &#160; &#160;" &#160; &#160; Omelet,  77  . . . . . . . .  60  
 &#160; &#160; &#160;" &#160; &#160; stuffing,  65  . . . . . . .  52   Milk gnocchi,  207  . . . . . . .  145   Minestrone,  9  . . . . . . . . .  11   Mushrooms, dried,  99  . . . . . .  74   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;"&#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;fried,  97  . . . . . .  73   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;"&#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;stewed,  98  . . . . .  74   Mussels, with egg sauce,  120  . .  89   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;"&#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; with tomato sauce,  121   89   Mutton, cutlets,  84  . . . . . .  54   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;" &#160; &#160; &#160; leg of,  72,   134  . . . .  57-96  
 Omelet, curled,  60  . . . . . . .  47   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;"&#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;lamb,  33  . . . . . . . .  29   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;"&#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;veal kidney,  61  . . . .  48   Onions, stewed,  160  . . . . . .  112   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;"&#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;stuffed,  159  . . . . . .  112   Orange, ice,  219  . . . . . . . .  154   Orgeat, syrup,  213  . . . . . . .  150   Panata,  3  . . . . . . . . . . .  7   Paste for frying,  63  . . . . . .  50   Pavese soup,  10  . . . . . . . .  11  
 Peaches, stuffed,  206  Bis . . .  144   Peas, with corned beef,  109  . .  82   &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; with ham,  108  . . . . . .  81   &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; with onion sauce,  117  . .  80   Pigeon, surprise,  137  . . . . .  98   &#160; &#160; &#160; "&#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;broiled,  148  . . . . . .  106   (See  Squabs )  Pistache, ice,  220  . . . . . . .   Polenta pie,  37  . . . . . . . .  31  
 &#160; &#160; &#160; "&#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;with sausages,  36,   163  . . .  30-113   Polpettone,  77  . . . . . . . . .  60   Pork liver fried,  66  . . . . . .  53   &#160; &#160; "&#160; &#160; roast,  146  . . . . .  105   Portuguese cake,  196  . . . . . .  136   Pot-roast,  130  . . . . . . . . .  94   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; "&#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; with garlic,  131  . . .  95   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; "&#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; larded,  136  . . . . .  98  
 Potato pudding,  203  . . . . . .  141   Preserve, quince,  215  . . . . .  151    Pudding, bread,  202  . . . . . .  141   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; Genovese,  88  . . . .  67   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;  Lazelnuts,   182  . . .  124   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; lemon,  204  . . . . .  142   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; potato,  203  . . . . .  141   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; rice meal,  201  . . . .  140  
 &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; roasted almonds,  205  .  143   Puff Paste,  62  . . . . . . . .  48   Quince, cake,  195  . . . . . . .  135   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;"&#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;preserve,  215  . . . . .  151   Rabbit, stewed,  52  . . . . . .  42   Raspberry syrup,  210  . . . . .  148   Ravioli,  10  . . . . . . . . . .  11  
 Rice, cakes,  27  . . . . . . . .  25   &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; meal pudding,  201  . . . .  140   &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; pancakes,  70  . . . . . .  55   &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; pudding with giblets,  87   66   &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; tart,  199  . . . . . . . .  139   &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; with saffron,  26  . . . .  24  
 Risotto Milanaise,  22  . . . . .  22   &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160; with chicken giblets,  23   22   &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160; with lobster,  25  . . .  23   &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160; with peas,  24  . . . . .  23   &#160; &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160; with saffron,  26  . . .  24   Roast-beef,  128  . . . . . . . .  93   Rolls, stuffed,  38  . . . . . .  32   Roman fry,  68, 69  . . . . . . .  54-55  
 Sabayon,  208  . . . . . . . . .  146   Salmi of game,  50  . . . . . . .  41   Sauce, anchovy,  13  . . . . . .  15   &#160; &#160; &#160; "&#160; &#160; &#160;balsamella,  59  . . . . .  46   &#160; &#160; &#160; "&#160; &#160; &#160;brown stock,  12  . . . .  14   &#160; &#160; &#160; "&#160; &#160; &#160;caper,  57  . . . . . . .  45   &#160; &#160; &#160; "&#160; &#160; &#160;for broiled fish,  56  . .  45   &#160; &#160; &#160; "&#160; &#160; &#160;green,  53  . . . . . . .  43   &#160; &#160; &#160; "&#160; &#160; &#160;Genovese,  58  . . . . . .  46   &#160; &#160; &#160; "&#160; &#160; &#160;tomato,  12  . . . . . . .  14   &#160; &#160; &#160; "&#160; &#160; &#160;white,  54  . . . . . . .  43  
 &#160; &#160; &#160; "&#160; &#160; &#160;yellow,  55  . . . . . . .  44   Sausages with corn meal,  163   113   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;" &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; with onions,  164  . .  114   Soup bean,  7  . . . . . . . . .  9   &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; bread,  7  . . . . . . . .  9   &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; cappelletti,  2  . . . . . .  6   &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; lentils,  8  . . . . . . . .  10   &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; Pavese,  11  . . . . . . . .  12   &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; Queen,  6  . . . . . . . . .  9  
 Soup, stock,  1  . . . . . . . .  5   &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; &#160;vegetables,  5  . . . . . .  8   Spaghetti,  11-15  . . . . . . .  13-17   (see  Macaroni )  Spinach, side-dish,  113  . . . .  84   Squabs, ragout,  48  . . . . . .  39   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;" &#160; &#160; &#160; stewed,  47  . . . . . .  39  
 &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;" &#160; &#160; &#160; timbale,  49  . . . . . .  40   (See  Pigeons )  Squash, fried,  32  . . . . . . .  28   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;" &#160; &#160; &#160;stuffed,  91  . . . . . .  69   Steak in the saucepan,  149  . .  106   Stewed cutlets,  73  . . . . . .  57    Strauberry , ice,  218  . . . . .  154  
 String beans in mold,  94  . . .  71    &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;"&#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; saut&#232;,  92  .  70    &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;"&#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; with egg sauce,  93   71   Stufato,  170  . . . . . . . . .  117   &#160; &#160; &#160; "&#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;French,  173  . . . . .  119   &#160; &#160; &#160; "&#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;Milanaise,  172  . . . .  118   &#160; &#160; &#160; "&#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;Southern,  171  . . . . .  118  
 Stuffing, chicken,  64  . . . . .  51   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;" &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;meat,  65  . . . . . .  52   Sugo di carne,  13  . . . . . . .  15   Sweet-breads,  157  . . . . . . .  110   Syrup, hard blackberry,  212  . .  149   &#160; &#160; &#160;"&#160; &#160; &#160; lemon,  211  . . . . . . .  148   &#160; &#160; &#160;"&#160; &#160; &#160; orgeat,  213  . . . . . .  150  
 &#160; &#160; &#160;"&#160; &#160; &#160; raspberry,  210  . . . . .  148   &#160; &#160; &#160;"&#160; &#160; &#160; red currant,  209  . . . .  146   Tart, curly,  188  . . . . . . .  129   &#160; &#160; "&#160; &#160; farina,  200  . . . . . . .  139   &#160; &#160; "&#160; &#160; Mantona,  187  . . . . . .  128   &#160; &#160; "&#160; &#160; rice,  199  . . . . . . . .  139  
 Tenderloin, with Marsala,  85   65   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; "&#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; with spices,  158   111   Tomato sauce,  12  . . . . . . .  14   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;"&#160; &#160; &#160; stuffed,  110  . . . . . .  82   Tongue, boiled,  154  . . . . . .  108   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;" &#160; &#160; &#160; stewed,  156  . . . . . .  109   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;" &#160; &#160; &#160; with olives,  155  . . .  109  
 Tripe with gravy,  82  . . . . .  63   Trout, Alpine,  174  . . . . . .  120   &#160; &#160; &#160;"&#160; &#160; &#160; fried,  176  . . . . . . .  121   &#160; &#160; &#160;"&#160; &#160; &#160; Lombard,  175  . . . . . .  121   Turkey,  145  . . . . . . . . . .  104   Tutti frutti, ice,  221  . . . .  155   Veal, breast,  80  . . . . . . .  62    Veal, cutlets,  75  . . . . . . .  58  
 &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; kidney with anchovy,  150   107   &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; liver,  161  . . . . . . .  113   &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; fried,  162  . . . . . . .  113   &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; in gravy,  83  . . . . . .  63   &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; kidney sliced,  151  . . .  107   Veal, roast,  129  . . . . . . .  94   &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; stewed,  39  . . . . . . .  32   Veal, with gravy,  81  . . . . .  62  
 &#160; &#160; " &#160; &#160; with tunny,  90  . . . . .  68   Vegetable chowder,  10  . . . . .  11   &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160;" &#160; &#160; &#160; &#160; soup,  7  . . . . . .  8   Wafer biscuits,  194  . . . . . .  134   Whiting with anchovy sauce,  177   87   Zabaione,  208  . . . . . . . . .  146   Zucchine,  32  . . . . . . . . .  28    
     
   
 
 
